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rc51 rough suspension any tips.


cOoTeR
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My 01 rc51 feels like riding a board especially under hard acceleration. I had the fork seals replaced thinking that was part of the problem (due to never being replaced prior). The bike just doesn't feel like its that stable. Just hitting small bumps on the road makes the bike feel like its getting airborne. Does anyone know of any tips for setting up the suspension on an rc51? I don't want to buy new forks or rear because I don't wanna drop the $$$ for a beat up street bike to have an ohlins setup.

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Look up Dan Kyle. He can work some magic out of the stock suspenders. On my old RC, he did the forks and they were some if the best I've ridden. When I had mine I matched the forks with a Dan Kyle reworked Ohlins out back, that thing railed and was a blast. Still a little harsh around town, but pick up the pace and she was fantastic.

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I have the same issues with the tl I just got. First bike I've had with adjustable suspension except for rear preload. I honestly have no idea when it comes to setting up suspenders. I'm more of a 'fix and tune engines' kind of guy.

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Look up Dan Kyle. He can work some magic out of the stock suspenders. On my old RC, he did the forks and they were some if the best I've ridden. When I had mine I matched the forks with a Dan Kyle reworked Ohlins out back, that thing railed and was a blast. Still a little harsh around town, but pick up the pace and she was fantastic.

This.

Kyle is the go to guy for getting the RC to handle correctly. I've not personally ridden one of his setups, but I've heard plenty of people echo woodchuck's comments.

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I would check the rear preload, if you bought the bike used the previous owner may have cranked the spring down to raise the height (maybe riding doubles). This is good for small adjustments but if you have to add too much then the suspension will feel stiff at the top. Check for free sag as well, you should have 5-10mm (this is the sag of the bike under its own weight). If you do not have 5-10mm then you need to look at changing to a stiffer spring or take some preload out.

Here is how I would start out:

1a. Make sure the pressure in your tires is correct

1b. Check all the settings, then set them to stock or turn the comp and rebound adjusters all the way out. You wont hurt anything if you cant remember where it was because you said it rides bad anyways. Remember a click out means from full hard or all the way in!

2. After turing all the adjusters out, you should set the sag for the front and rear. I like to start with the rear. Measure from the center of the axle to a fixed point on the tail. Do this with no load on the rear, bike by its self and with you on it. For example if you measure 650mm with the bike off the ground then you want to be around 620mm with you sitting on it and no lower then 640 with only the bikes weight.

Do this for the front, there should be some adjusters on the top of the forks for the preload and rebound. compression should be on the bottom. I take a different approach for the front because my CBR has long top out springs. I put a zip tie on both forks (on the chrome part) and make sure under very hard braking i am within 10mm of bottoming out. If you have short top out springs then you can measure it the same way you did the rear.

3. set up your rebound and compression front and rear. I would read the following.

-RC51 settings (find your bike, these are NOT STOCK!)

http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/suspension/146_suggested_suspension_settings/honda.html

-How to do it:

http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/suspension_setup/146_0402_suspension_setup_guide/index.html

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never go by a "suggested setting". it never works for all. it might be ok for a general ballpark but if you're really looking to fine tune your bike never use a guide from a magazine or the owner's manual.

the only thing you'll benefit from the magazine article is learning what screw does what.

the sag and rebound are the 2 most important or priority settings first of all. if that bike has never had the forks serviced it's way overdue. the oil is only good for so long.

you can change the oil on your own pretty easy. it's a matter of taking the top cap off and draining it out and filling it back up. although you really should take it all the way apart and clean it out with brake cleaner (yes that's what suspension shops use).

you'll be very surprised how much of a difference just the oil can make. I just changed mine out last week. I had put racetech's ultra slick in it about in 07. this time I used maxima racing fork oil and I can really tell with the settings at what they were. and race techs oil isn't supposed to break down like normal stuff does.

Edited by serpentracer
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never go by a "suggested setting". it never works for all. it might be ok for a general ballpark but if you're really looking to fine tune your bike never use a guide from a magazine or the owner's manual.

the only thing you'll benefit from the magazine article is learning what screw does what.

the sag and rebound are the 2 most important or priority settings first of all. if that bike has never had the forks serviced it's way overdue. the oil is only good for so long.

you can change the oil on your own pretty easy. it's a matter of taking the top cap off and draining it out and filling it back up. although you really should take it all the way apart and clean it out with brake cleaner (yes that's what suspension shops use).

you'll be very surprised how much of a difference just the oil can make. I just changed mine out last week. I had put racetech's ultra slick in it about in 07. this time I used maxima racing fork oil and I can really tell with the settings at what they were.

Agree, use the link I posted as reference... This setup is probably "stiffer" then the stock setup. So you would be better starting with the stock set up to start with.

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