head gasket replacement, easy or no?

[natedogg624]

so long story short water pump failed causing coolant to empty itself causing overheating causing head gasket failure.

paid a mechanic to fix the water pump with new thermostat and hoses, which is when they realized the head gasket had failed as well. already a lot out of my pocket, so i did the old "time out" when they told me the new price to replace the head gasket (+1700).

did some parts fishing (fische-ing) and new head gasket plus all the req'd "must replace" parts/gaskets/misc plus new engine bolts would be total 150 max. so far a lot better than 1700. after that i ran down to the auto store and picked up a shop manual and looked over head gasket replacement and it doesn't look too bad. no special tools req'd (that i can see/or have read about). the only thing im worred about is the timing part of the engine if i have to mess with that.

now, i've never worked on car engines before only bikes. like really never, most i've done is changed oil/coolant on cars. however bikes i can almost tear down and put together with my eyes closed, installed a new transmission on one of my bikes (that kind of mechanical knowledge).

its a 98 Chevy S10 2.2L (I4cyl)

[chevysoldier]

Piece of cake. Recommended time is 6.8 hours, 7.2 with A/C.

[oldschoolsdime92]

its a pretty straight forward job. If you can follow directions you can get it done!

[jporter12]

so long story short water pump failed causing coolant to empty itself causing overheating causing head gasket failure.

paid a mechanic to fix the water pump with new thermostat and hoses, which is when they realized the head gasket had failed as well. already a lot out of my pocket, so i did the old "time out" when they told me the new price to replace the head gasket (+1700).

did some parts fishing (fische-ing) and new head gasket plus all the req'd "must replace" parts/gaskets/misc plus new engine bolts would be total 150 max. so far a lot better than 1700. after that i ran down to the auto store and picked up a shop manual and looked over head gasket replacement and it doesn't look too bad. no special tools req'd (that i can see/or have read about). the only thing im worred about is the timing part of the engine if i have to mess with that.

now, i've never worked on car engines before only bikes. like really never, most i've done is changed oil/coolant on cars. however bikes i can almost tear down and put together with my eyes closed, installed a new transmission on one of my bikes (that kind of mechanical knowledge).

its a 98 Chevy S10 2.2L (I4cyl)

It's not that bad of a job, and $1700 sounds VERY high, for a head gasket. MOST of the time, when we've pulled on on a 2.2 it's been cracked. Even with replacing the head with a NEW one, just running some quick numbers should be around $1200 at the shop where I work, maybe less.

[chevysoldier]

Remove the engine cooling fan clutch.

engine drive belt.

fan pulley.

generator.

A/C compressor,

power steering pump.

water outlet.

accessory mounting bracket.

exhaust manifold.

valve cover.

valve rocker arms and push rods.

Disconnect the fuel pipes from the fuel rails.

Remove cylinder head.

[|SnOmAn|]

I had a '68 Mustang that use to be cake to work on as far as the engine was concerned. I had to tear it apart and change the gaskets but later found out the block was cracked.

Chevy, where do you work at? I need a need A/C compressor put on and one place wanted $1000 to do it!

[Restlesswildman]

Piece of cake on the head! Make sure to take it to the machine shop and have it pressure tested for cracks and then milled to insure that it is flat. If it got that hot to pop a gasket I would be worried about a cracked head as previously mentioned. The timing is straight forward, just make sure to turn the engine over by hand a few times to double check that it is lined up right!

The only thing you may need is a angle gauge for when you torque the head bolts.

[serpentracer]

It's not that bad of a job, and $1700 sounds VERY high, for a head gasket. MOST of the time, when we've pulled on on a 2.2 it's been cracked. Even with replacing the head with a NEW one, just running some quick numbers should be around $1200 at the shop where I work, maybe less.

haha a S/10 or cavalier?

(I have some experience in that area) mine cracked.

and chances are, if it got hot enough to leak it's cracked or warped.

[natedogg624]

the gasket is cracked or the head is?

how much would it cost to take it to a machine shop to get it checked? although i don't know if i wanna pay a lot just for bad news.

i just need this to last for less than one more year until i graduate.

[NINJA14]

For the price just drop another engine in it from a salvage yard.

[natedogg624]

im not paying that much, thats the reason im looking at doing it myself is so i DONT spend that much money.

we had an older honda with a blown head gasket, but no warpage or cracks. so my question is, how likely is it that the head is cracked or warped with these s10s?

[jporter12]

I had a '68 Mustang that use to be cake to work on as far as the engine was concerned. I had to tear it apart and change the gaskets but later found out the block was cracked.

Chevy, where do you work at? I need a need A/C compressor put on and one place wanted $1000 to do it!

Hit him, or myself with a PM, we both work at the same place,but it's all the way up in Johnstown. Might be a bit far for you.

Piece of cake on the head! Make sure to take it to the machine shop and have it pressure tested for cracks and then milled to insure that it is flat. If it got that hot to pop a gasket I would be worried about a cracked head as previously mentioned. The timing is straight forward, just make sure to turn the engine over by hand a few times to double check that it is lined up right!

The only thing you may need is a angle gauge for when you torque the head bolts.

No timing to worry about, the cam is in the block, and you don't have to bother with it. It doesn't even have a distributor to worry about.

im not paying that much, thats the reason im looking at doing it myself is so i DONT spend that much money.

we had an older honda with a blown head gasket, but no warpage or cracks. so my question is, how likely is it that the head is cracked or warped with these s10s?

The chance of it being warped is near 100% with a crack a pretty close second. I've done quite a few of those, and only a few didn't need replacement, due to cracks.

[standout]

I'm a automotive mechanic to. U dont have to worry about the timing on that motor as it's not over head cam. Everything timing related is in the block. The only advice that hasn't been mentioned is to spray the exhaust manifold bolts with pb blaster or some other penetrating oil. Everything else should pretty much be easy.

As far as the a/c compressor job that sounds about average at most chain stores. Most places charge for the evac and recharge, oil,dye and receiver/drier anytime the system is opened.

[natedogg624]

ok since most everyone says its gonna be warped or cracked, where can i take it to either get it fixed if warped or new head if cracked? also what is the apprx cost and turnaround time for something like that?

[serpentracer]

oh shit I didn't see that we were talking about a s/10 for real.

I thought your R6 took a shit.

any machine shop can check it. and it's usually not that expensive. for what it's worth, I'd buy a rebuilt head.

I know of a place where you can buy a complete rebuilt head for about $225. (it's listed with beretta/corsica/cavalier/s-10) you'll have to find which casting # yours is. call them up and they will tell you where to look for the #.

http://www.headsonly.com/gm.htm

Edited June 27, 2010 by serpentracer

[omaralaoui]

ok since most everyone says its gonna be warped or cracked, where can i take it to either get it fixed if warped or new head if cracked? also what is the apprx cost and turnaround time for something like that?

CARQUEST is where we take the heads from our shop to be checked,so far we never had a problem, its anywhere from 100 to 300 to get them resurfaced. hopefully its not very bad as machine shops can only resurface them to a certain limit. also i think depending on how much they take off, may be the headbolts torque will change as well.

one question though, could you elaborate on the exact problem you are having ?

[omaralaoui]

im not paying that much, thats the reason im looking at doing it myself is so i DONT spend that much money.

we had an older honda with a blown head gasket, but no warpage or cracks. so my question is, how likely is it that the head is cracked or warped with these s10s?

there is a couple of places around columbus that have complete engines from 300 to 600 . it might a little easier for you to just swap them if you never replaced a head gasket.

anyways, if you want i can get you our discount on the parts if you like. here is what the head gasket set will look like

prices are :

head gasket set : 95$

head bolt set : 20 $

you will need some silicone for the valve cover gaskets, better change the plugs too.

[serpentracer]

that's not a discount lol.

they are $98 anyway. come on help a forum member out!

[omaralaoui]

that's not a discount lol.

they are $98 anyway. come on help a forum member out!

i promise im trying. i could call around ( oreilly, napa, pep boys, advance.. etc)

[jporter12]

CARQUEST is where we take the heads from our shop to be checked,so far we never had a problem, its anywhere from 100 to 300 to get them resurfaced. hopefully its not very bad as machine shops can only resurface them to a certain limit. also i think depending on how much they take off, may be the headbolts torque will change as well.

one question though, could you elaborate on the exact problem you are having ?

WTF? Dude, I hope you're not the one building, or doing serious repairs on engines at your shop. :nono"

there is a couple of places around columbus that have complete engines from 300 to 600 . it might a little easier for you to just swap them if you never replaced a head gasket.

prices are :

head gasket set : 95$

head bolt set : 20 $

you will need some silicone for the valve cover gaskets, better change the plugs too.

Another WTF? No RTV (silicone adhesive) needed.

It's a better idea to replace the head on this application. Chances are that the engine you get will need a head gasket, if not now, soon. The bottom end of those engines are usually good to go for a LONG time. The only other problem I've seen on those 2.2's mechanical is the timing chain tensioner failing, and sometimes a timing chain. I replace them all together anyway.

The only thing I can agree with this tool 100% on is changing the plugs while working on it. Use AC-Delco plugs.

that's not a discount lol.

they are $98 anyway. come on help a forum member out!

I am not going to try to claim to help him out other than on advice. I'm not on OR to get business for the shop, but I can let people know that I do this sort of work! If the OP wants to consider the shop where I work as an option, I can PM the number for him to call for an accurate estimate.

One other thing, there was one of these S-10's that I worked on that had a cracked block. It was cracked down the bore, along the travel of the piston. I've probably done 20-30 of these in the past couple years, so I know a thing or 2 about a thing or 2 on them.

[El capitan]

For the price just drop another engine in it from a salvage yard.

this...

i look at it this way the car was running and driving when it got into the wreck... i've had good luck with boneyard motors.

[jporter12]

this...

i look at it this way the car was running and driving when it got into the wreck... i've had good luck with boneyard motors.

Many applications I would agree, but not on a GM 2.2. The aftermarket heads are better than what GM put on them. I'd get one from Alabama Cylinder Head. They cast their own version, and they're very reasonable. That's what we get through our Carquest dealer.

[El capitan]

Many applications I would agree, but not on a GM 2.2. The aftermarket heads are better than what GM put on them. I'd get one from Alabama Cylinder Head. They cast their own version, and they're very reasonable. That's what we get through our Carquest dealer.

i'd have to factor in the worth of the car before i'd begin spending anything close to a grand on a gm 4 banger thats just me though.

[omaralaoui]

WTF? Dude, I hope you're not the one building, or doing serious repairs on engines at your shop. :nono"

Another WTF? No RTV (silicone adhesive) needed.

It's a better idea to replace the head on this application. Chances are that the engine you get will need a head gasket, if not now, soon. The bottom end of those engines are usually good to go for a LONG time. The only other problem I've seen on those 2.2's mechanical is the timing chain tensioner failing, and sometimes a timing chain. I replace them all together anyway.

The only thing I can agree with this tool 100% on is changing the plugs while working on it. Use AC-Delco plugs.

I am not going to try to claim to help him out other than on advice. I'm not on OR to get business for the shop, but I can let people know that I do this sort of work! If the OP wants to consider the shop where I work as an option, I can PM the number for him to call for an accurate estimate.

One other thing, there was one of these S-10's that I worked on that had a cracked block. It was cracked down the bore, along the travel of the piston. I've probably done 20-30 of these in the past couple years, so I know a thing or 2 about a thing or 2 on them.

1-no , im not a mechanic, if that s what ur asking

2- i said silicone for the valve cover gaskets, not the head gasket

3- i said i could help him out with the parts, not repairs like you re claiming

4-when i mentioned engine swap, i was talking from the ease of the job and cost stand point.

[omaralaoui]

WTF? Dude, I hope you're not the one building, or doing serious repairs on engines at your shop. :nono"

Another WTF? No RTV (silicone adhesive) needed.

It's a better idea to replace the head on this application. Chances are that the engine you get will need a head gasket, if not now, soon. The bottom end of those engines are usually good to go for a LONG time. The only other problem I've seen on those 2.2's mechanical is the timing chain tensioner failing, and sometimes a timing chain. I replace them all together anyway.

The only thing I can agree with this tool 100% on is changing the plugs while working on it. Use AC-Delco plugs.

I am not going to try to claim to help him out other than on advice. I'm not on OR to get business for the shop, but I can let people know that I do this sort of work! If the OP wants to consider the shop where I work as an option, I can PM the number for him to call for an accurate estimate.

One other thing, there was one of these S-10's that I worked on that had a cracked block. It was cracked down the bore, along the travel of the piston. I've probably done 20-30 of these in the past couple years, so I know a thing or 2 about a thing or 2 on them.

forgot one last point .

come bro, who are you calling tool ? just trying to help with whatever info i got. ease it with the comments