Jump to content

thirdgen's massive F4i rebuild thread.... pix intense!!


thirdgenlxi
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well... I just uploaded 265 pictures to photobucket, won't be posting every one of them, but just be warned.... this is gonna be a looooong thread with ALOT of pictures!! LOL

Anyways, some may remember I went down back in Dec and the whole ordeal that followed. For those that don't.... back on Dec 17th I was on my way to work and while veering off on a road to the left, I hit a patch of oil/diesel fuel/antifreeze/something slippery, and lowsided at about 25 mph. All was fine until the bike slid into the curb, did a little highside and then rolled over itself into the grass. I got right up, not even so much as a scratch on me, thank god (leathers FTMFW!!), went over to the bike and it was completely covered in engine oil. Not a good sign already!

Luckily another guy from work was several cars behind me when this happened, so he saw it and recognized it as being me, and pulled right into the parking lot there and made sure I was OK. Luckily he had his pickup and an empty bed, so we lifted the bike into the bed of his truck and off to work we went

8d1f7121.jpg

eafd5308.jpg

He gave me a ride home after work and we unloaded the bike into the garage. I was able to get a little better analysis of the damages

DSC01578.jpg

DSC01559.jpg

DSC01560.jpg

Right side didn't really get much at all

DSC01561.jpg

DSC01562.jpg

Swingarm got gouged up pretty good

DSC01564.jpg

DSC01565.jpg

Now for the really bad part.... when it slid, the flywheel took a hard and direct hit with the curb

DSC01566.jpg

DSC01567.jpg

Took a good size chunk out of the lower crankcase

DSC01570.jpg

DSC01573.jpg

All that was left of my stator cover

DSC01574.jpg

Definitely not a good sign there!

DSC01580.jpg

A couple weeks later, after much persuasion with a pry bar I was able to get the mangled stator out of the flywheel. Thanks to a generous member of 600rr.net for loaning me the OEM flywheel puller tool, I was finally able to remove the flywheel and inspect behind it. I was quite sad with what I found

Crank was definitely bent

Picture063.jpg

The crack in the case was also worse that I had originally seen

Picture033.jpg

Several weeks went by waiting for the insurance adjuster to come out to the house and look at it. I already knew they were gonna total it, but it was pretty much my only option at this point. They finally came out and looked at it, then had to wait another couple of weeks for them to process everything. Contrary to everyone else telling me "don't bother, it's not worth anything anyways", I'm glad I didn't listen, cuz the insurance company thought otherwise. They valued the bike at $4400, subtract $500 deductible and we're at $3900.... then the buy back was $600, and I went ahead and did just that. So I kept the bike, and got a check for $3300. For a bike with 177k miles on it, can't really complain at all

I was in the process of moving at the time, so I didn't really have much of any time to work on it, plus I didn't want to tear it apart before I moved, then end up having to move it in pieces and loosing stuff. I moved the bike over to my new residence and it sat there for another couple of weeks. My buddy Matt's boss down in Greenville, SC is an engineer with a full machine shop, CNC machines, welders, lathes, etc. He said he might be able to fix it, so he said bring it on down and we'll tear it open and have a look

Finally by the end of Feb, I was settled into my new place and had some time to work on the bike. I quickly got to work tearing it down

09f433d8.jpg

d23c5eec.jpg

Rafters and ratchet straps are a godsend!!

ec60559e.jpg

And milk crates too, hahah

4e3b4d6c.jpg

Had the engine out shortly after

04977c8b.jpg

After 177k miles, she's a little dirty, as one might imagine

1ccd3ff4.jpg

Picture013.jpg

Picture035.jpg

Picture001.jpg

Wasn't much left of her after that

92bb161b.jpg

Picture051.jpg

Oh and around this time, I came across this little gem on ebay so I picked it up for a steal ($300 for both). I asked the guys in the body shop at my work if they could paint it up and fix a small crack, and they said sure, so I dropped it off ever there. Also took my tail section which had a few scratches and cracks, and a few other goodies I bought as well (you'll see those at the end)

Picture016.jpg

So in March our schedules finally work out and I take it down to Greenville, SC and have my buddies boss take a look. We start tearing the engine open. Nothing has been cleaned in these pics, it's exactly as we tore it apart

DSC01636.jpg

DSC01637.jpg

Remove the cyl head (first time ever been off).... pistons have a little carbon buildup, but nothing major

DSC01640.jpg

DSC01641.jpg

Flip it upside down and remove the oil pan so we can split the cases

DSC01643.jpg

Engine is spotless inside

DSC01644.jpg

DSC01645.jpg

Lower crankcase removed

DSC01646.jpg

Crank journals and bearings still looked brand new

DSC01647.jpg

DSC01648.jpg

We pull the crankshaft out, and sure enough, just as we thought. Bent beyond any conceivable repair

cb076557.jpg

The case was severely cracked under the end crank journal bearing

3ba04810.jpg

So.... I wasn't too happy at this point. This was the last little bit of hope I was hanging onto to possibly fix my original engine. But, not gonna happen. I gave it some thought, and pretty much my only option at this point was another engine. The timing could not have been better, as I quickly went on ebay and found a 2004 F4i engine with 15,000 miles. It was at $200 with no reserve, only catch was he wouldn't ship it, pick up only in Atlanta, GA. I watched the auction like a hawk, nobody was bidding on it for several days so I thought I was in the clear. I sit there and watch it in the final several minutes, and lets just say I won the auction in a furious snipe at about 5 sec remaining, outbidding someone else who had the same idea, hahaha. Ended up getting it for $256.... hell of a deal!

So that weekend I hop in the trusty Accord and make my way down to Atlanta, GA from Asheville, NC

DSC01675.jpg

DSC01677.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting closer!

DSC01678.jpg

As I'm approaching Atlanta, I tighten my seatbelt and say a little prayer for my life as I merge onto, what I always appropriately like to call, the "I-285 GP". Wow..... I was quickly reminded just why I hate driving in Atlanta....ever!!

DSC01681.jpg

I make my way into the city, where I'd meet up with a guy named Sean. We met up at the Cycle Gear since we both knew right where it was

DSC01683.jpg

Picked up the engine and stuffed it in my trunk, right next to my old engine

Picture030.jpg

Went over to my buddy Kevin's house north of Atlanta where I'd crash for the night. We took the new engine out and did a valve check on it just to see where it was at, and how it looked

DSC01684.jpg

Had 2 valves that were slightly out of spec. One was loose, one was tight, so we were able to swap shims and got both in spec. Everything else looked pretty good, and clean

DSC01685.jpg

DSC01688.jpg

The next night I make my way back home to Asheville, NC, driving through some of the worst rain I've driven through in YEARS, might I add, lol. On the nice 5 hour drive home I gave the whole situation lots of thought. Me being the stubborn SOB that I am, still wasn't truly happy with just replacing the engine. I kept thinking...there's GOTTA be a way to keep at least part of it original. Then... DUH.... *lightbulb*

So I took the new engine into work the next morning

DSC01689.jpg

DSC01690.jpg

DSC01691.jpg

I needed to take the clutch out anyways to swap my Factory Pro shift star and detent spring I had put in mine awhile back

DSC01705.jpg

Got the clutch out, and wasn't too happy with what I saw. Had some pretty good bluing and burn marks on the clutch plates, as well as some pretty deep grooves in the ears on the inner and outer clutch baskets. RED FLAG!!

DSC01707.jpg

Now that my suspicions are raised, I keep digging a little further. By now my decision was pretty much made up as to just what I was gonna do

DSC01712.jpg

DSC01703.jpg

DSC01704.jpg

DSC01710.jpg

About the same amount of carbon buildup on the pistons as mine had.... not too bad

DSC01713.jpg

Split the cases and take a look inside. Overall it was clean and didn't look too bad. Some of the edges of the gear dogs in the transmission had some wear

DSC01714.jpg

DSC01715.jpg

DSC01716.jpg

Numbered the pistons on the new engine and popped them out

DSC01734.jpg

Within an hour or so, had the new engine town down to nothing but a bare block

Picture021.jpg

Then I brought out my original engine and started to tear it fully down

DSC01692.jpg

DSC01693.jpg

My cylinder head had a little carbon as well, but overall not bad at all.... all valves and seats were in great shape

DSC01696.jpg

DSC01697.jpg

DSC01698.jpg

DSC01700.jpg

DSC01701.jpg

DSC01702.jpg

Stripped it down to the bare block as well

DSC01717.jpg

Now here's the pretty amazing part.... hard to see in the pics, but believe it or not, after 177,428 miles, all 4 cylinder walls still have PERFECT crosshatch. No joke!

DSC01722.jpg

DSC01727.jpg

Crank bearings.... perfect

DSC01723.jpg

DSC01731.jpg

DSC01732.jpg

Here's a better pic of the crack in the block. It took a smack for sure!

DSC01738.jpg

Bent crank

DSC01663.jpg

It bent so much that it actually squished and buckled the metal on the one side...

DSC01666.jpg

...And stretched it on the other side

DSC01668.jpg

As for the crank journals themselves... perfect

DSC01669.jpg

DSC01672.jpg

DSC01674.jpg

DSC01670.jpg

Time to start assembling the "new" engine. I hone out the cylinders real good on the new block to deglaze them

DSC01735.jpg

Now here's another little interesting tidbit. I start measuring ring gap, and I'm curious how my 177k mile engine compares to this 15k mile engine (which I now believe was run a bit hard). The service limit on the upper ring is 0.40mm. So using cylinder 1 in the new block, I take the upper ring from both cylinder 1 pistons of the new engine and my old engine. The ring from the new engine is right at the 0.40mm service limit. My 177k mile ring measured 0.27mm. Yea..... figure that one out!

DSC01781.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used a brass scraper to clean the surface of the block up

DSC01784.jpg

After cleaning the carbon off the pistons and making sure the ring grooves are nice and clean, gotta index the rings before reinstalling each piston (each ring gap has to be facing a certain way)

DSC01788.jpg

Install each piston

DSC01785.jpg

Use lots of this stuff!!

DSC01792.jpg

My original rod bearings.... perfect

DSC01789.jpg

DSC01790.jpg

After several gradual steps, make my way to 19 lb.ft on the rod caps

DSC01794.jpg

Hard to see in the pics, but the lighter color timing chain guide on the left has more wear than the one on the right. One on the left is out of the 15k mile engine, one on the right is my original. I put my original back in

DSC01796.jpg

Finally installed the new timing chain that I've had sitting in my toolbox since.... 2005?? LOL

DSC01798.jpg

DSC01799.jpg

Used my original oil pump

DSC01801.jpg

Installed oil pump and my Factory Pro roller bearing detent spring

DSC01804.jpg

Installed my original shift drum with the Factory Pro shift star

DSC01809.jpg

DSC01814.jpg

My shift forks were still in perfect shape, so reused those too

DSC01811.jpg

DSC01815.jpg

Can't forget the oil control orifices! That would be a very bad thing to leave out

DSC01817.jpg

Bottom end... complete!

DSC01819.jpg

After applying some assembly lube on all the crank bearings, install the lower crankcase

DSC01820.jpg

Torque all case bolts down to spec

DSC01824.jpg

DSC01826.jpg

Install oil pick-up and pressure release valve

DSC01828.jpg

Oil pan

DSC01829.jpg

Flip over and install oil cooler

DSC01830.jpg

DSC01831.jpg

Install shift shaft

DSC01833.jpg

Oil pump drive chain and sprockets

DSC01834.jpg

Install the outer clutch basket

DSC01835.jpg

Then the inner hub, then tighten the nut (94 lb. ft = FUN when the engine is out, lol)

DSC01836.jpg

My original (yes 177k mile original) clutch was still in great shape, so I reused it

DSC01837.jpg

Coat all the clutch friction and steel plates with clean engine oil before install

DSC01839.jpg

DSC01842.jpg

Install clutch pressure plate and springs, tighten to 9 lb.ft

DSC01843.jpg

Time to button up the top end

DSC01856.jpg

DSC01857.jpg

Cleaned the carbon off my original head and it cleaned up nicely

DSC01858.jpg

DSC01860.jpg

Easy does it when it comes to torquing a head. Lots of small increments is my preferred method

DSC01864.jpg

Final torque of 35 lb. ft (much better than the 245 lb. ft for the ARP head studs I usually do on the diesels, lol)

DSC01865.jpg

Install exhaust camshaft and line up timing marks

DSC01866.jpg

DSC01867.jpg

Install intake camshaft and line up timing marks

DSC01868.jpg

DSC01869.jpg

Gotta torque the cam hold down plate in the EXACT sequence numbered on the plate

DSC01871.jpg

DSC01872.jpg

Rotate the engine slowly by hand to make sure no problems, then recheck timing to make sure it's dead on

DSC01874.jpg

And at the crank too

DSC01875.jpg

Looking like an engine again!

Picture024.jpg

Picture025.jpg

Do a quick compression test just to make sure no major problems. Not perfect, but for an engine that is cold (supposed to do it warm) and hasn't run yet, that's still pretty damn good

DSC01877.jpg

Install spark plugs

DSC01880.jpg

Reused my original water pump

DSC01881.jpg

The stator cover that came on the new engine had some rash, so I sanded it down to remove the scratches

Picture060.jpg

Then just painted it flat black with some hi-temp paint

DSC01852.jpg

Install the stator back in the cover

Picture028.jpg

Install the stator and cover, valve cover, and thermostat housing and hoses, and she's complete, ready to go back in!

DSC01882.jpg

DSC01884.jpg

DSC01889.jpg

So I hung the ratchet straps from the rafters once again, and wheeled the bike into position

DSC01891.jpg

DSC01891.jpg

Get the engine into position

DSC01893.jpg

Slowly lower the frame down onto the engine

DSC01894.jpg

Annnnd.... she's in!

DSC01895.jpg

DSC01896.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gotta tighten the engine mount bolts in a certain sequence to center the engine, then use the special tool to tighten the adjuster lock nuts on the right side

DSC01915.jpg

Install the radiator

DSC01899.jpg

Tighten all coolant hose clamps

DSC01901.jpg

Attach clutch cable

DSC01904.jpg

Fill it up with quality cooling juices

DSC01910.jpg

Never forget the lube

DSC01903.jpg

Double check level.... it takes a little more oil after a major surgery

DSC01909.jpg

By this point, the anticipation was absolutely KILLING me!! For the past 4 months, all I wanted to do was hear her run again. Cosmetics or anything else I wasn't worried about, I just wanted to hear her run. So I stopped there, made sure I had everything connected engine wise, bolted the exhaust on, and stuck the gas tank on. Had a gas can with a little bit of gas in it so I poured a little bit in the tank. I was just saying a prayer.... pleeeeeease start up, please start up! There were so many things running through my mind... "did I tighten that?".... "Did I remember to put that piece in?".... "Did I leave anything loose?"..... "I did put oil in right?"..... "What if it doesn't start?". Seriously all the "what if's" running through my mind at 100 mph. But, I connect the battery and all the lights come on and the fuel pump primes. I switch it off and on several times to fill up the lines with fuel. I had my fingers crossed and made this video..... it is indeed the very first attempt to start it. Watch and see!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ovbu0W2hJ6o

WoooooooooHooooooo!! Success!! Seriously, words can't describe how happy I was to hear her start right up and run.... perfectly. Both a huge sigh of relief, as well as a huge feeling of accomplishment, I was almost crying happy tears just to hear her run again, and something I assembled piece by piece with my own two hands. It's a feeling like no other!

So.... after she was running like a champ, I moved on to other stuff. Remember the swingarm that was all rashed up??

Picture019.jpg

Picture059.jpg

I sanded it down with my whiz wheel (same as the stator cover). It slowly shaves the metal down and removes the scratches little by little until they're gone

Picture067.jpg

I then used some Mothers metal polish and an orbital buffer to smooth it down to a nice shine

Picture069.jpg

I then used course steel wool and hand sanded for about 3 hours, slowly removing any little scratches from the sanding, and giving it that brushed aluminum finish that was on it originally

Picture018.jpg

It turned out pretty damn good if I do say so myself!

Picture049.jpg

There's still a small bit of rash at the very bottom.... it was too deep I'd have to sand too much. It's alot better than it was though

Picture062.jpg

Apply several coats of commercial grade clear coat to protect the metal

DSC01913.jpg

Install the swingarm on the bike

DSC01916.jpg

Hey sometimes you gotta get creative when you don't have a big enough hex bit, haha

DSC01917.jpg

Hey whatever works, right??

DSC01920.jpg

After centering the swingarm, use the special tool to tighten the adjuster lock nuts

DSC01921.jpg

DSC01922.jpg

And of course the pivot bolt

DSC01923.jpg

Install rear wheel and rear brake caliper

DSC01924.jpg

OMG... starting to look like a bike again!

Picture003.jpg

My fairing stay was tweaked just a little bit, mostly on the left side

DSC01925.jpg

DSC01928.jpg

So I replaced that too

DSC01929.jpg

Now.... my plastics!! I got them back from the body shop, and they turned out fantastic! They repaired the small crack in the upper fairing, fixed some rash and cracks in the tail fairing, and fixed a big rock chip in the hugger, then painted them all black. The headlight had a tiny scratch so he sanded that down and got it nice and clear again. Solo seat cowl was red prior, they painted that black too. All of this cost me.... nothing. I tried to pay them, they don't take it, not even for paint. Good thing for having buddies in the body shop who are also riders themselves, huh?? LOL

DSC01930.jpg

DSC01931.jpg

Got my HID bulbs and Proton flushies transferred over to the new headlight

DSC01933.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Front and side fairings installed

DSC01934.jpg

Tail installed

DSC01935.jpg

DSC01936.jpg

DSC01937.jpg

DSC01938.jpg

Well... she's back together!! Only things I was missing here were my Puig DB windscreen and the left side fairing. Waiting for both of them to arrive in the mail, but damn it I wanted to go ride! Still had my stock windscreen so I put that on, and everything was tight enough without the left side fairing, so screw it, lol. So... Sat April 3rd around 5pm or so, letting her warm up, about to go take our maiden voyage!

DSC01939.jpg

Rode around town staying close to home just to be safe, incase anything went wrong. Everything was perfect though.... temp was staying where it should, plenty of power, everything was smooth and crisp, no vibrations... nothing. So I get on the highway for a short bit...all good there! Make my way up to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Made a quick video just to show how good she's running. Ended up logging 110 miles before the night was over

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV5PZFNPAj4

Several days later my windscreen and left fairing show up in the mail

Picture037.jpg

I've always been one for a clean stock look, so I put the decals back on (still waiting on the ones for the front upper... they were on backorder)

Picture002.jpg

Picture023.jpg

So today I had everything all done and got her all cleaned up. I took her up to that special place up on the BRP for some quality pix. Here's the ending result of my past 4 months of work

DSC01945.jpg

DSC01946.jpg

DSC01947.jpg

DSC01948.jpg

DSC01949.jpg

DSC01950.jpg

I still need to get a 'new' left side fairing... this was just a cheapo ebay one to cover it up for now. Couldn't spend the $400 right now, ugh

DSC01960.jpg

I'm damn proud of how well the swingarm came out, hahah

DSC01952.jpg

New rear hugger.... been wanting one of these forever

DSC01953.jpg

DSC01954.jpg

DSC01955.jpg

DSC01956.jpg

DSC01964.jpg

DSC01980.jpg

The wreck happened at exactly 177,428 miles..... been riding her for about 5.5 days now and logged exactly 951 miles. Still running absolutely perfect, and haven't had a single problem! First full tank of fuel I burned through I got 42.87 MPG, so I would venture to say she's running pretty good!

DSC01985.jpg

And last but not least..... one INCREDIBLY happy thirdgenlxi

DSC01967.jpg

Phew.... that's all the pics! Thank god, I've been typing this for about 5 hours now, and really getting a headache, lol. But yea, everything ended up working out in the end, and I'm just happy to have my baby back, and still running on about 95% of her original engine. I swapped EVERYTHING from my old engine to the new block, everything down to the neutral indicator switch, oil pressure sensor, and thermostat housing. Only parts used from the new engine were the block, crank and crank bearings, and starter (mine started giving probs after I took it out). Every other part in or on the engine.... original. It may not be 100% anymore like it was, but hey, given the situation I think it's the best solution I had to keep her as original as I possibly could. And it worked! And for all the people that kept telling me it wasn't worth it, and it was gonna cost more to fix it than it would be to buy a new bike, hear this: Grand total for EVERYTHING I did was right at $1100. I used the remaining $2200 to pay off a $2200 credit card debt that's been hanging over my head for waaaayyyy too long now, so it's completely gone. So now I have MY bike back, and no debt at all.... I think I like my way of handling this situation a little better than alot of the responses I got, lol. Plus I've got a box full of engine parts to sell, maybe make a few bucks back!

Anyways, hope you all enjoyed the pics! Sorry if I made your computer crash. Roadtrip pics will be soon to follow!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh, and how long did it take you to post all this stuff?

A little over 5 hours.

Phew.... that's all the pics! Thank god, I've been typing this for about 5 hours now, and really getting a headache, lol.

Thirdgenlxi - You are my motorcycle hero! :bow: That was an awesome story to read. Thank you for sharing. I just spent about 30 mins of my morning enjoying every bit of it. Thanks for letting me in the shop with you for those 30 minutes. It was awesome! I respect and admire you for what you did to that bike. Your skills are a sight to see. Enjoy the new ride. :bow::cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow! I had been waiting to read this! I saw the video you had posted on FB of the first startup, and from then I was wondering about the details!

This gives me some inspiration to get my VF500F back together. I REALLY need to find some new valves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Third gen is the man......i have been following him on the 1000rr.net site.......i wish i had the time to ride as much as he does.......he is forfilling a dream.......the open rode on a honda cbr!!!! great job man suck the 177,000 mile'r went down......i was curious as to how long that thing would really go because i was shocked when you posted up the 150,000 mile mark on 1000rr.net.........i think you should be able to do the same with this engine because it's a HONDA RIDE RED!!!!!!!! (even tho mines silver lol)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm curious how much the rebuild costs?

Absolutely amazing rebuild bro.

I think 2 now, JesseCWalters and Likwid, didn't read the thread before they asked questions. He stated all in all it costs him only $1100. :slap:

See bolded:

And for all the people that kept telling me it wasn't worth it, and it was gonna cost more to fix it than it would be to buy a new bike, hear this: Grand total for EVERYTHING I did was right at $1100. I used the remaining $2200 to pay off a $2200 credit card debt that's been hanging over my head for waaaayyyy too long now, so it's completely gone. So now I have MY bike back, and no debt at all.... I think I like my way of handling this situation a little better than alot of the responses I got, lol. Plus I've got a box full of engine parts to sell, maybe make a few bucks back!
Edited by NinjaNick
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most excellent! She looks great. I have to ask' date=' since her internals were in such good condition, do you always use the Rotella 15w? I don't need to read another oil thread for the rest of my life. I'm just going to switch to whatever it is you've been using and stick with that.[/quote']

If I had to guess, the Rotella was for break-in, which is the same thing I use often for a break-in oil, especially if an engine has a flat tappet camshaft.

On a bike, one of the big advanges of 15w40 oil has to do with the amounts of friction modifiers in it. The geartrain is hard on these components in the oil, and something that has to multiply by about 2.5 as in 15w40, compared to 4 for a 10w40 is likely to protect better, for longer. This is all from what I have read about oils, btw... I'm not a chemical enginerd or anything like that.

I think 2 now, JesseCWalters and Likwid, didn't read the thread before they asked questions. He stated all in all it costs him only $1100. :slap:

See bolded:

I call lazy, at least on Likwid, seeing his history of doing this..... :slap:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice rebuild! I am curious on one thing though, why put the old plugs back in? :D I mean I understand about saving a few bucks but nothing like an old fouled plug to keep your freshly rebuilt engine from starting or running properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...