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Mountain Bike Questions


ludwb675
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Another choose my bike thread!!!!

Currently ride road but want to get into mountain/trail riding. I know nothing of mountain bikes. I've read some articles and such. I don't need carbon or anything fancy; sticking with flat peddles. Disc brakes and hard-tail. Other than that, i have no idea.

My main question is what size wheels? Seems like 29 is the go-to at the moment. But would 26 really be that much different? 

Would the following be a good starter bike? https://cleveland.craigslist.org/bik/d/specialized-hardrock-sport/6229496416.html

My budget is probably $5-600. There are a lot of bikes on craigslist but i don't know brands enough to know what is decent and what i should avoid. Maybe there are new bikes in that range that would be sufficient. 

Thanks in advance!

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Just now, Isaac's Papa said:

Don't buy that bike. I have a medium frame 26" bike you can try out. It has a better fork and disc brakes. That HR is a shitbox. 

26" is faster in the trails than a 29", but requires more effort to cover obstacles. The 29" will turn slower than the 26, but will just roll over anything. So, there is definitely a difference. 

@blue03636 just broke himself again, so I'll be commandeering his Trek for the rest of the season. You're welcome to ride my Kona to get your feet wet. 

I'm antsy in my pantsy to get in the dirt, so we should set up a newb-friendly ride soon. I'm still learning the ropes, myself. 

Pending surgery I may be back sooner than you think. 

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Lets do a group ride sometime. I'm on a full rigid fat bike so I'm not flying through the rough terrain either.

West Branch is fun and I know its real close to IP but probably not others.

I've promised myself I would ride Mohican and Medina this season and I need to get back to Vultures Knob sometime, have not been there for years.  

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I may be trading up in the future. 26" Giant Anthem x3 with upgrades XT,XTR Ders American classic wheelset,afterburner crank, carbon bars(have stock) Crank bros seatpost,  it's a large i'm 5'10 have ridden m/L  difference between 27/29 M and 26 L is less than 29M-29L

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Would go 29er or 27+ in tire size. For 27+, hard to beat Specialized Fuse. Trek Roscoe will be coming out soon too for another 27+ option. For 29er, Trek X-Caliber 7 or Specialized Rockhopper Comp are good options, If you can save up to invest a little more, close to $1000, you will get a way better bike. At Eddy's, we've got a good number of bikes in that $700-$1000 range that would be plenty of bike to last a while.

Honestly as IP said, you will dump money into a used bike just to bring it up to par. It's not to say you cant get out and have fun on something used, but be prepared to fix stuff as it breaks or as you see the need to upgrade. A $500 used bike can quickly turn into the cost of buying something new!

Another thing I always tell people is to hit up demo days or take out one of our rentals. We have the Fuse's available to try before ya buy. This allows you to take it to local trails and try it vs a parking lot test ride. It can also help to see if MTB is something you really enjoy vs something to try and never do again. One of the guys I ride with on the road came out one time with us to try MTB since others in the group go and really enjoy it. He found that it wasnt really for him. He was glad he found out before spending money on a bike!

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Thanks for the input everyone. IP got me a good lead i'm following up on. 

If that falls through, i'll be on the look again. I really don't have the budget to spend 1k on a bike at the moment. House needs a new front door and my track tires are about shot. Worst case i save up over the winter and buy something new. 

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Wish you weren't so far away, I'm considering selling my Diamondback X6 DBRseries....really need a hardtail since I'm not in the dirt much.  1 owner, I bought it new in '00 and will provide all paperwork, manuals/booklets for each component, even the sales receipt if you want it.  The bike is still all original, could use tires eventually but these still grab soil pretty well.

Hasn't been used much for the last decade until recently when the wife and I started biking the local city path again....still rides silky smooth.  It's a large frame size, and was professionally setup when I'd first bought it, but I've never used this bike remotely close to it's full potential.  

$300obo?

2000%20Diamondback%20X-6.jpg

Wheels and Tires

Hubs: Formula disc

Rims: Mavic X223 Disc

Tires: 26 x 2.25inch Geax Sedona

Spokes: Stainless steel, 2.0mm

Components

Brakeset: Shimano Deore XT Disc Brake brakes, Shimano Deore XT Disc levers, Magura HS 55 Louise hydraulics.

Shift Levers: Shimano Deore LX RapidFire SL

Crankset: Shimano Deore LX, 22/32/44 teeth

Pedals: Wellgo clipless

Bottom Bracket: Shimano BB-ES70

Rear Cogs: 9-speed, 11 - 32 teeth

Seatpost: Thomson Elite

Saddle: SDG Comp Satellite

Handlebar: Koski butted

Handlebar Stem: Koski

Headset: Tange Seiki DX-2

Fork:  RockShox Judy Race Hydracoils

Rear Shock: RockShox Deluxe Adjust

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5 hours ago, Isaac's Papa said:

@Hellmutt, how do you list a full suspension bike and not list the suspension specs? 

Goober. :lol:

 

I dont know all the fancy dancy lingo like you hardcore bikers!  I tossed it up while at work earlier, I had to thumb through the books that came with it when I got home....couldn't remember exactly what was what on it LOL.  

Still don't know THAT much about it, but was told repeatedly it was really good equipment back when it was new.

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Join the CAMBA facebook groups.  there is an "open" group and a "closed" group.

If you say you want an entry level hardtail, you'll get plenty of options in your budget.  I also feel like people in CAMBA are slightly less likely to sell you junk than a random on CL, since they can't remain anonymous as easily.

I am all in for a group ride, but unlike @CBBaron I will be attempting to set the world on fire on a rigid fat bike, tackling the chunk :p

All joking aside though, $500-$600 should get you a bike that's perfectly adequate for 90% of the local terrain.  Almost every time I ride, someone comments on how slow my bike will climb, or how much I'll have to brake before ___________ section.  The people making those comments have never passed me or caught up to make a second comment.  That's not to say I haven't been absolutely humiliated by 50 yr old dudes with beer guts who have better leg strength and endurance, but they're not fast because they have nicer bikes, they have nicer bikes because they're fast enough to rationalize them.

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I just picked up a MTB too, and am looking to get "back" into it after about 20 years off.  Any suggestions on decent helmets?  Also, looking for some decent pedals.

I'd love to hit up Chesnut Ridge or Lake Hope sometime after I get a few miles under my belt.

Any helpful info would be greatly appreciated.  

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I think people who pay $100 for flat pedals are burning money...

Get some cheap aluminum flats on Amazon.  Yeah, the bearings will wear out more quickly than a more expensive set, but you should be LUCKY to put that many miles on a bike without other components failing first.

anything with adjustable pins, and a dedicated set of skate or riding shoes will work well.  My clipless pedals are around $50, and my shoes/cleats were $120 at my LBS (a lot cheaper online).

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Cool, thanks Chris.

Do you guys use phone apps for speed, miles traveled and trail maps?  If so, any bar mounts you recommend?  Or should I just get a dedicated device to download maps and keep track of distance/speed?

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1 hour ago, Ron505 said:

Cool, thanks Chris.

Do you guys use phone apps for speed, miles traveled and trail maps?  If so, any bar mounts you recommend?  Or should I just get a dedicated device to download maps and keep track of distance/speed?

I use Strava ( free app ) and plan to fit my ram mount and x-grip, but for now just toss my phone in my pocket.  Strava tracks speed, elevation, route, and a ton of other features too....good enough for me

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1 hour ago, redkow97 said:

I think people who pay $100 for flat pedals are burning money...

Get some cheap aluminum flats on Amazon.  Yeah, the bearings will wear out more quickly than a more expensive set, but you should be LUCKY to put that many miles on a bike without other components failing first.

anything with adjustable pins, and a dedicated set of skate or riding shoes will work well.  My clipless pedals are around $50, and my shoes/cleats were $120 at my LBS (a lot cheaper online).

I have been using the cheap nashbar flats, they work well. 

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I like Strava for keeping track of my rides and comparing how I have done. Its humbling to compare yourself to others on popular trails though :(

I use a garmin edge 25. Very small, easy to use and easy to mount to your bike. Plus it displays any ride info you might want and phone notifications without exposing your phone more than necessary or draining battery. However the phone app work also.

I use the Forte BMX style pedals from Performance bike. A BMX style flat pedal with pins is much nicer than the bear trap style and plastic pedals should just be thrown in the trash.

I don't trust myself off road with clipless but they are much more efficient.

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I use the free version of Strava on my phone (no external GPS or anything like that).  I leave my phone in my tail bag, unless its' super cold out, and my phone shuts down on its own...  Then i will keep it in my hip pocket or the water bottle pocket of my jersey (which I rarely wear) so my body warms the phone.  I would look at my phone too often and probably crash if I had it mounted where I could see it.  Plus I think i would cause the battery to drain more than necessary.  Strava allows the screen to go black and 'lock' when you're leaving it alone. 

And yes, the pins on flat pedals will eat up running shoes.  My trail running shoes have chunks taken out of the tread from riding my bike.  I didn't realize this until I had already purchased clipless shoes, but I would have made that a higher priority if I'd noticed sooner.  And I have scars on my left shin...

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Do I need to spend decent money on a helmet in the MTB world?  Or are they all close to the same?  I'm sure there is weight and strength differences, but what do you guys suggest for starting out?

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1 minute ago, Ron505 said:

Do I need to spend decent money on a helmet in the MTB world?  Or are they all close to the same?  I'm sure there is weight and strength differences, but what do you guys suggest for starting out?

I dont think so. Dont go ultra cheap but the $20+ helmets are fine. Make sure it fits well. I really like the racheting mechanism on most Bell helmets. Makes the fit quick and easy. 

More expensive get lighter and better air flow. Sometimes nicer fit features. 

If you want to start hucking the downhill trails then get a full face. Otherwise they all protect similarly.

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5 hours ago, CBBaron said:

I dont think so. Dont go ultra cheap but the $20+ helmets are fine. Make sure it fits well. I really like the racheting mechanism on most Bell helmets. Makes the fit quick and easy. 

More expensive get lighter and better air flow. Sometimes nicer fit features. 

If you want to start hucking the downhill trails then get a full face. Otherwise they all protect similarly.

I race a little motorized MX here and there, so I've got plenty of full face style helmets.  I just thought I'd like a lightweight, breathable helmet for MTB'ing.

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