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Sonik's maiden voyage. 7-22-17


Tonik
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Just now, what said:

Rear stand isn't hydraulic. Or pneumatic. 

Yea, that problem occurred to me right after I hit Submit.  When I pick up the Whale it's with a traditional motorcycle jack under the engine.

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9 minutes ago, Tpoppa said:

Put a long 2x4 under the tire.  You can shim up one end to lift the tire with anything, including your foot.

I grab the shovel from the corner of the garage.  Put the blade under the tire, push down on the handle, and the wheel goes up.

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If you are not using something adjustable to raise the bike such as a rear stand the the best thing you can do is make a floor to tire ramp that does not fit tight. A little on the loose side is better to allow for new tread. Do this before you pull the axle. Doc's major issue was that when he pulled the wheel out the swing arm closed up about an eighth of an inch or more and the wheel with spacers would no longer fit. It took a bit of  finesse  get it back in. 

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1 hour ago, thompsonian said:

I've said it before, I'll say it again....set that bitch at full stiff and ride like hell...you don't need no stinking sag....

Says the guy talking about taking another round of preload out of his front forks earlier this week. :lol:

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3 hours ago, Tpoppa said:

 

That doesn't sound right.  Are you sure it has stock springs?

Fully adjustable suspension, correct?  If you have rebound set to the lowest possible setting, you'll get bounced all over the road.

yep fully adjustable / i went to softest possible rebound and then added one click back.

 

But i was always curious of this, general consensus is dont go all the way to bottom of setting. Why is this. as in preload now its loest possible, all line showing then i just added a tiny bit back. Compression i have couple more clicks left. feels pretty good spot as of now. Rebound is okay for now. honestly once i got new rubbers its making good difference (obviously) 

3 hours ago, Tonik said:

 

Did you do any lowering or other mods that might impact suspension?

hahaha no that was my first and last experiment/ no more changing geometry the engineers set :)

3 hours ago, JustinNck1 said:

I guess I'll pile on the questions as well. Did you set your sag?

Not perfectly, need another person the next time :) so far shock seems okay to get sag. Front there is no more that can be done other than changing spring. 

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1 hour ago, what said:

The spacer on the triple is the worst part of the tire change process. It's such a pain in the ass to get that to stay on there + get the brake caliper back on correctly. I did find that using my foot as a lever under the wheel when trying to mount makes it easier, but still not easy. 

wonder if those captive spacers are worth the investment.

I had a hard cover book just the right size under the tire to align them things. But as jerry said, it just didnt have width to go in with that bloody caliper slide in design. I was afraid to mess with it and break any thing, and he just finagled it in a snap :) 

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11 minutes ago, NinjaDoc said:

wonder if those captive spacers are worth the investment.

I had a hard cover book just the right size under the tire to align them things. But as jerry said, it just didnt have width to go in with that bloody caliper slide in design. I was afraid to mess with it and break any thing, and he just finagled it in a snap :) 

For me there's usually lots of swearing and name calling and somewhat violent shaking of the wheel + caliper + axle until everything lines up. 

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Lowering preload does not make the springs less stiff, in fact what is known as preload doesn't actually "preload" the springs at all.  All it does is lift or lower the front end for a given amount of weight.  5mm in on the adjusters will raise the front end 5mm.  The adjustment is more accurately termed "ride height".

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18 minutes ago, Tpoppa said:

@NinjaDoc

Too little rebound damping is tolerable on a smooth road, but will bounce around like a pogo stick when the road gets rough.  It can also cause you to lose traction.

Give me your bike for an hour.  It'll be setup correctly for less than perfect roads.

I think this is where it's confusing, too little by which you mean valves are least open and hence fork is stiff as in, you push down and it comes up slow. Right? 

Mine is set up to fully opened and still it's stiff as in some more to go before I can get it to where I like it. 

1 minute ago, MSerfozo said:

Lowering preload does not make the springs less stiff, in fact what is known as preload doesn't actually "preload" the springs at all.  All it does is lift or lower the front end for a given amount of weight.  5mm in on the adjusters will raise the front end 5mm.  The adjustment is more accurately termed "ride height".

Very true, only adjusts ride height. So if you don't set the right height based on the shift in weight the front to back geometry of the bike will be in disarray 

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1 minute ago, NinjaDoc said:

I think this is where it's confusing, too little by which you mean valves are least open and hence fork is stiff as in, you push down and it comes up slow. Right? 

Mine is set up to fully opened and still it's stiff as in some more to go before I can get it to where I like it. 

Very true, only adjusts ride height. So if you don't set the right height based on the shift in weight the front to back geometry of the bike will be in disarray 

Well you better sort this shit out before Saturday or I will be passing you on the inside of a blind corner. Need to practice before I do it to @DerekClouser

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Sooooo, back on topic. Weather already feels better by evening not as dense as they predicted. Gut feeling says it's gonna be cloudy 80ish and no rain :) 

a fierce battle between Derek's magnet and toniks dome 

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