Selling bike due to loosing job so I won’t be able to flex too much on the price. I’m selling my 2003 Honda CBR600RR with roughly 27-29,000 miles on it. Bike has been sitting since last year can’t seem to figure out an electrical issue. Bike was running when I parked it last. The bike does has damage to the plastics but nothing too sever the clutch cover has damage but it hasn’t leaked in the 7-8 years I’ve had it. The throttle cables were replaced as well clutch cable I’ve routed a spare cable along the new one as a habit. Tires have less than 500 miles on them Bridgestone Battlelax front and rear. I’ve got some other items that could potentially go with the bike. I have Motocentric soft luggage that I’d be willing to sell as well saddle bags roll bag and tank bag.
Bike has add on:
Hotbodies racing exhaust with undertail fender eliminator kit with integrated turn signals.
Real brake light is smoke color has integrated turn signals.
Frame sliders(swing arm, bar end sliders) as well.
Black wind screen
New battery June 2018
New stator June 2018
New regulator Rectifier June 2018
New front brakes and rotors June 2018
Stainless steel braided lines coated in black plastic.
90 degree air valves on wheels
Adjustable clutch, brake levers
12 volt weather proof outlet on upper tree
Turn signal mirrors smoke color
I’ll consider all reasonable offers please keep the bullshit to a minimum. I know the bikes old and beat to shit I just need to keep the lights on here. I’ve got some other items I’m selling just look for the post.
Hi, it was recommended by Tonik that I share a post I started on my Honda 1100 ACE tourer forum to get input from this group. I have a 1998 Honda 1100 ACE with 25,912 miles on her.
I have a small coolant drip coming from the cross bar and need to replace the old O rings. Has anyone here made this type of repair? See pics of what I posted on the T-Forum. Any input or advice is welcome with minimal jackassery is appreciated 😉
One owner, clean title in hand. Track only. Stock motor. 20,990 miles.
The time has come for me to face the reality that getting back on the track isn't in the cards. So I'm selling my baby, a 2004 R6 that I bought brand new in September of 04 and have ridden every mile since.
It hasn't been babied by any stretch of the imagination, but it has been obsessively maintained. Runs like the day it was new, only stronger. Routinely dyno'd at over 100hp at the wheel. From commutes, to exploring the twisties in Kentucky, to drag races and track days, this bike has always taken everything I threw at her and come back asking for more. Zero mechanical malfunctions in all the time I've owned her.
Always used Motul 300V oil and RBF600 brake fluid, changed more often than my socks. Only the finest of distilled waters in the cooling system. Suspension only has two days on the track since it was last serviced. The paint is pockmarked from going fast, and there's a little rash on the right lower from a teensy low-side at Grattan a bunch of years ago. Otherwise, the bike has always been rubber-side up.
Would make an excellent first track day bike, or novice racer, or endurance race machine. Fully safety-wired, never leaked a drop of anything, and always passed tech with flying colors. Comes with an absurd number of spares, Pit Bull front and rear stands, aluminum loading ramps, a rain suit, and even a service manual. You're a couple sets of fresh tires away from driving directly to the track with this thing in your trailer.
Suspension and Brakes
Elka 3-way rear shock Stock forks with GP Suspension cartridge kit Suspension built, serviced, and tuned by Matt Carr, sprung for 190lb rider Tapered roller bearings in the headset Ohlins linear steering damper Galfer SS braided brake hoses EBC pads
Dynojet PCIII USB with custom tune Leo Vince SBK carbon and titanium exhaust Factory Pro +4 ignition advance Factory Pro Superflare velocity stacks Graves slide stops and AIS blockoff plates BMC Race filter Shorai LFX battery Custom 1/4 turn throttle mod
DID 520 chain AFAM and DID sprockets (-1 front, +0, +1, and +2 rears with carriers) Two extra sets of wheels
Catalyst Composites bodywork with custom paint and graphics Woodcraft rearsets, case covers, frame sliders Puig clear DB windscreen Graves fairing stay Pazzo shorty levers
I'm selling my 2004 Honda CRF250X dirt bike, street-legal with a clean and clear title, ready to go for the season. It's the X model with wider gearing that people get for woods riding, enduros, hare scrambles and dual sports, AND it has the popular R (racing) cams for MX-level power, especially off the bottom. The bike is no joke at 270 lbs wet. My buddy and I went thoroughly through it last spring and again this winter to make it possibly the most sorted X you'll find. He rode the Honda with me in Wayne, Perry and Flint Ridge, but moved out of state recently. That's why I'm selling it - I have another bike that fits me better.
We added a road-legal lighting kit and registered it with the DMV (yay dual sport rides!), replaced every fluid except the forks, installed new tires and HD tubes (now roughly 100 miles/15 hours on them), replaced the air cleaner, cleaned and regreased every wheel bearing, replaced and greased every suspension bearing, added handlebar risers and set sag for a 180 lb 5'10" rider, installed a new lithium battery (pushbutton start AND kick!), added Cycra handguards and radiator guards, replaced the foot pegs with a set that actually grip and also installed a Trail-Tech Vapor unit for speed and engine temp. There are a few little things too, like fork "shock socks," a temp-monitoring radiator cap, seat pack and grab handle. I'll throw in a brand new (quality) set of chain and sprockets, the service manual and spare lightbulbs, plugs and other misc. parts.
Friends know I take care of my bikes like I never want to get stuck far away due to mechanical neglect, and this X is absolutely ready to hit the trails again as-is. But here's where I tell you about the negatives - you need to change the fluids like it's an R model, so don't be waiting a whole season between services - it's just like a KTM, Beta or Husky. The right crankcase took at brake tooth hit during Flint Ridge. I repaired it with JB Weld and haven't had an issue since, but I'd recommend inspecting it during the next oil change and considering a case protector. The Vapor's spark sensor wire broke, so it won't tell you RPM (a $20 fix). It has a good bash plate, but stump hoppers will want to add or replace it with a full-coverage unit. It's quick, and I mean quick off the bottom, so I would NOT call this a beginner's bike unless you have good throttle discipline. The existing chain and spockets are fine but could use a swap within the next year (included). I'd recommend draining the fork oil if for no other reason than to say that EVERY fluid has been changed, and checking the valve clearances - I meant to do both over the winter but work got in the way. The bike starts, runs and suspends great, but it never hurts to be proactive, ya know?
The bike is located in northeast Columbus, priced at $2900. I know I don't have to say this to OhioRider folks, but please no scammers and time wasters. I'm an honest, no-BS, no-games seller who would be happy to sell this bike to a fellow (or would-be!) woods rider from this forum.
I have a like new 2016 Yamaha xsr900 I’m looking to sell. It has just over 3,000 miles(mileage may go up as I ride it). I am throwing in all my riding gear and stuff for the bike. I’m not able to get out and ride enough to justify the payment so it is time to let it go.
size 46 black Joe Rocket jacket leather and textile
2 pair leather riding gloves
size 47 Sidi riding boots
scorpion Hemet and scena headset
moto demic fly screen
r&g radiator gaurd
r&g block off plate for rear pegs
still have stock rear pegs
I will work on getting pictures of everything and need to make sure I know my payoff before posting the asking price. I just wanted to get it on here for anyone interested.