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o-no-moto
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Ok fellas'  I am reading up on how to change the fork oil in my sprint.

This will be my first attempt but I am fairly confident I can pull it off. Only thing that is concerning is when I am adding the oil.

The book states that I need to use a syringe  in put the oil back in the tube through the top. Question is can I just measure and pour it in?

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1 minute ago, o-no-moto said:

Ok fellas'  I am reading up on how to change the fork oil in my sprint.

This will be my first attempt but I am fairly confident I can pull it off. Only thing that is concerning is when I am adding the oil.

The book states that I need to use a syringe  in put the oil back in the tube through the top. Question is can I just measure and pour it in?

You can, but you don't know how much got left behind or if you left behind the same amount in both forks. Being a little over or under is not that big a deal but different amounts can be a big deal. 

You can make one. I assume it is saying fill it until it x mm from the top. Just get a coat hanger, straighten it out and tape some aquarium hose to it and measure out the distance.

Add oil as you BLOW on the tube. When you hear bubbles you got it.

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Was told my helmut to ping @vf1000ride about setting up the forks. Found I can get a set of springs with a 1.0 kg I believe that's how there rated for about 130$. If I am removing that same spring to change the fluid anyway might as well get them with the fluid change.

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I had done the racetech valves and springs in mine.  Changed the rear shock for an Ohlins.  If you go on the racetech website you can do their spring finder and input your info to get their recommendations for spring weight and it worked out perfect for me.  Changing them is not hard but a few specific tools are needed.  That oil service syringe makes it a ton easier.

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6 hours ago, vf1000ride said:

I had done the racetech valves and springs in mine.  Changed the rear shock for an Ohlins.  If you go on the racetech website you can do their spring finder and input your info to get their recommendations for spring weight and it worked out perfect for me.  Changing them is not hard but a few specific tools are needed.  That oil service syringe makes it a ton easier.

If those forks are anywhere like my gsxr's, I dont suggest going in without the special tools. My track bike forks leaked a bit after there were rebuilt because we did not have the tool to properly spin the fork tube into the casting. When I sent them to racetech, the tech said we had about 5 turns to go to properly seat the fork tube to the seal at the bottom of the casting.

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Chad, I'd wager if you're pulling springs and swapping oil.....may as well stuff fresh seals in it.  Over 20k miles and likely factory fork oil, would be a good idea while it's down :dunno:

Edited by Hellmutt
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I was able to spin it around for a few laps yesterday and am starting to get a better feel for a triple.

I did notice while at cruising throttle and light accel it had what felt like a ramdon ignition miss.

After some conversion with helmut he suggested checking the valve adjustment.

So on i went with the checking of the valves.

Specs for the intake are .10-.15 and exhaust are .15-.20.

The smallest measurement on the intake was .20 and .22 being the largest.

The exhaust was .27 and .33.  

So its safe to say and valve adjustment is in my future.

Is there Anywhere local to get shims?

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Dont forget to check those plugs too.  Believe they're irridiums, but at over 20k they're overdue if they haven't been changed yet.  As for shims, I'm not sure sure about aftermarket kits....but Triumph World probably sells them as an OEM engine part.  They might offer them as a kit with various sizes too?

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Possibly a hole in the fuel map causing your "miss" then.  I have the OBDII to USB cable to connect up to the bike.  I'll loan it to you if you have a laptop and download TuneECU.  Or, possibly by the time you're back I may have it downloaded myself and can come by to help you out.  Haven't seen your new place yet, so may as well come by anyway

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On 3/24/2017 at 7:47 PM, o-no-moto said:

Is there Anywhere local to get shims?

I got a full kit from Motorcycle Superstore years ago.  Got a set of like 60 in a bunch of different sizes.  I unfortunately gave them all to a buddy with a speed triple after I crashed my Sprint.  Can't really ask for them back at this point.  Sorry. 

 

You need the 9.48mm diameter shims.  Hot Cams still makes the quick index case.

http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-engine-and-exhaust/valve-shim-kits-refills-universal/hot-cams-valve-shim-kit?m=147313

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12 hours ago, vf1000ride said:

I got a full kit from Motorcycle Superstore years ago.  Got a set of like 60 in a bunch of different sizes.  I unfortunately gave them all to a buddy with a speed triple after I crashed my Sprint.  Can't really ask for them back at this point.  Sorry. 

 

You need the 9.48mm diameter shims.  Hot Cams still makes the quick index case.

http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-engine-and-exhaust/valve-shim-kits-refills-universal/hot-cams-valve-shim-kit?m=147313

Thank you sir. Was wondering about the diameter size. From the research i have found it looks that my valves are pretty damn loose. I am pretty sure adjusting the valves should clean up the part throttle cruise.

 

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So manuallib.com only has a service manual up to 99 1050 st with shim over buckets and the specs are .10-.15 intake and .15-.20 for the exhaust. Are the 2006 under bucket specs the same?

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I downloaded tune ecu and am waiting for the cable. I have no fault codes but i can feel a light throttle cruising miss. I cant blame the valves seeing that they are spot on. I and going to try and see what my fuel trims are soon as possible 

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