Help or install regulator on motorcycle

[just_some_dude]

I've never felt very comfortable messing with electric. Didn't know if anyone would be interesting in helping me install or simply installing a SH847 regulator on my Buell 1125CR (http://www.roadstercycle.com/#SH847_SERIES_RR_KITS_ARE_NOW_AVAILABLE_).

Looks like the regulator may have to be installed under the tail unless you recommend something different.

Anyone open to helping or want the job? Let me know what you would charge. I'm in central Ohio not far from Iron Pony.

[Gixxus Christ!]

Little too far for you to bring it my way, pm hoblick, he's a solid dude and a good tech, lives in Marysville iirc.

[just_some_dude]

Thanks for the info. I'll send him a line. You are up North a couple hours, right (from Columbus)?

[Gixxus Christ!]

Yeah I'm close to Canton

 You'd need a backpack full of batteries to make it up here on a roached regulator. Hob has a good rep on here as a mechanic, but seriously it's probably 2 bolts and a plug. You could handle it.

[motocat12]

The link is to a multi bike kit that crimps bare wires to the old stator wires (yellow/ no specific order) and an additional ground and fused+

[Gixxus Christ!]

Oh. Wonder why not go OEM? Were the OEM ones shit? I know very little buell trivia.

[mello dude]

If you havent jumped in an already bought that SH847 - the FH020AA will do the job fine and you would save 70 bucks..... The wire up job is easy, but you need to do quality work or your wasting your bucks....

Edited May 26, 2016 by mello dude

[just_some_dude]

1125 has tons of charging issues. Regulator sucks, parasitic leak on the battery, stator burnouts, voltage issues,  etc. Unless I'm riding crazy all the time, stop and go traffic will destroy the battery and stator in no time. The stock regulator on the bike is tiny compared to the SH847. I don't know a lot about regulators, but I believe the FH020AA is a shunt style and the SH847 is serial. Shunt won't work on my bike... then again I'm just regurgitating what I've found online. If it was plug and play, I'd be all over it. If it was my cheapo Blast that I try to mod everything I wouldn't mind cutting wires and playing around. This bike I try to touch as little as possible. With all the charging issues on the bike I would just feel more comfortable with someone with more experience and knowledge wiring, etc.

[motocat12]

fh020 is shunt/mosfet better and cooler than the old pure shunt. I upgraded my bike to a 2nd hand yamaha's FH012 along with thicker gauge wires all over and connector deletes. These have been upgrades to many of the last 15 years bikes with electrical gremlins. 

interesting here though http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellregulator/ wonder if it really didn't help or the stator was already too far gone

[mello dude]

If Buell's have a history of eating stators, then a series style R/R can help that. The stator wont be pulling full volts all the time like a shunt style will. But generally if the stator is fine, the "newer" tech Mosfet FH020AA will do the job. 

[just_some_dude]

This is a good forum I read about the issue:

http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/684243.html?1340136031

I do have the updated rotor that throws oil on the stator. That doesn't stop the bike from losing voltage in stop and go traffic. I don't know how these regulators will help this bike below the 2k range or below the 4k range like this article expressed.

[just_some_dude]

Another good read on a lot of these regulators: http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

A quote from it:

Quote

Here is the SIGNIFICANT difference - this new R/R is SERIES - not SHUNT!!

Why is that of benefit?
The difference between Series & Shunt is that:

Shunt - the Stator always has to apply maximum generated current - when the R/R is in regulation it shorts across the winding to 'shunt' current away from the load directly back to the stator. In an SCR (OEM) Shunt Regulator the SCRs get extremely hot and they ultimately burn out if that heat is not adequately cooled - that is why OEM needs to up front directly in the cooling path.
Because of the way it operates, if you reduce the system load (e.g. turn off the lights) the R/R will actually have to shunt MORE current and will run hotter - but the stator load is the same regardless of whether the current is going to the load, or back through the SCR's.

Series - this is fundamentally different in that in a Series design, instead of diverting (shunting) excess current back to the stator to control the output voltage, the regulation works by interrupting the current path to the load. This means that the Regulator ONLY supplies current demanded by the load itself, and no excess current parallel path through a shunt. So the net result is that this type of Regulator is MUCH kinder on the stator because the stator is always supplying much less current! So the stator does not get so hot and its reliability increases significantly.
The fact that it has SCR's is not quite so problematic as in the Shunt application, because they are flowing less current and for a shorter duration. So they will not get as hot as when used in shunt mode.