M_Quick Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 (edited) So my run of bad luck with contractors continues. I recently hired a company, to pour me a 10'x12' concrete pad to build a shed on. The shed manufacture called for a 121" x 143 1/4" I told the mason this, and he replied 10'x12' sounds good to him, lol. I figured the 1" one was being short and 3/4" the other way being long wouldn't make to much of a difference Anyway this guy ends up measuring his forms from outside to inside of 2x4". Making the pad 1 1/2" short on both sides. Mason's remedy is to add 4" more to 2 sides. Will this work or just asking for trouble down the road. I think I should just let shed hang over pad, and ask for discount. Please give any advise. Edited May 8, 2016 by M_Quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 If the shed is going to sit on runners on top of the pad, then a little overhang front and rear doesn't matter much. But if it's too narrow to support the outside edge runners, the framework would likely warp over time. Hopefully the mfg's recommended size is a couple inches bigger than needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 This is a question you need to ask the shed manufacturer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Masonry. Lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 This is a question you need to ask the shed manufacturer. The shed manufacturer recommended size is listed above. Will adding 4" to 2 side's last or hold together is my main question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustinsn3485 Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 I have no experience so my answer should carry minimal weight. That said, if he does pour the additional 4" on two sides, I'd want rebar drilled into the newly poured pad and coming out horizontally into the 4" section. In my mind that seems like it would help to ensure that it doesn't drop over time since half of the shed could be setting on just that section of concrete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 I have no experience so my answer should carry minimal weight. That said, if he does pour the additional 4" on two sides, I'd want rebar drilled into the newly poured pad and coming out horizontally into the 4" section. That is exactly what my Uncle said. He too is not a mason, but is a general contractor. If adding the 4" to two sides, that would be the corner I set the shed on. I fiqure better to cover the scab work and leave the solid part exposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aforrest4 Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 My shed has 3 runners and non of them are near the edge. Did you talk to the manufacturer to see if their runners were along the far edge or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Did not call manufacturer, just had this done this weekend. Not sure what you mean by runners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandit12 Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 3 hours ago, M_Quick said: Did not call manufacturer, just had this done this weekend. Not sure what you mean by runners? The runners are circled in this picture, some buildings are inset a few inches to a foot and some are built right to the edge of the building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connie14 Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Drill in a piece of rebar every 2’ into the existing slab. Use a 2 part epoxy (out Ramset Redhead A7 or similar acrylic anchoring adhesive) for holding the rebar in the existing slab. Lowe's or Home Depot should have no. 4 rebar and the epoxy. This will hold it together for a very long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 ^^^ Thinks he's a engineer or somthing ^^^ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Why the hell cant people follow simple instructions? i would tell him to bust the whole thing up and do what you asked him to do in the first place. His loss. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 I don't think this shed has runners. Shows a outer frame or track for the sides to fit in. It's a aluminum shed made by Arrow. I think I'm okay on the 12' side since it's really only 3/4" shy of manufacturers recommended width, but the 10' side is 2 1/2 " shy! Connie14, thanks for the info you are the 3rd to mention this. But 1st to mention epoxy. I was wondering about that myself. But was thinking drill larger hole than rebar, so concrete would enter hole as well as rebar. I'm sure your idea is better. Although I like my uncles other idea best, but doubt the contractor will go for it. Which is to bust it up and start over, and measure twice this time! Also cost of this was $1200. I was thinking what about 10' of landscaping timber down one side. And it could be anchored into slab. And just ask this clown for some money back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Why the hell cant people follow simple instructions? i would tell him to bust the whole thing up and do what you asked him to do in the first place. His loss. My dumb ass alrdy paid for the work. No excuse but I was feeling rough as hell, some sort of virus. And I never thought to measure it before cutting the check. I guess I should of measured his forms the day before the concrete truck came. Who's got time for this bs in today's busy lifestyle. You get to the point in your life when you have a few dollars and dont want to bust your ass, so I hire it out thinking it will be done professionaly and I don't bust a sweat or my back. I should of simply done this myself, I don't know what the concrete would of cost but I'd guess a savings around $750 and ended up with a 121"X143 1/4" slab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 If I had the room, I would put the extension on one side, so it is all in one place...that makes it wider and more stable. And yea, rebar it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 1 hour ago, M_Quick said: My dumb ass alrdy paid for the work. No excuse but I was feeling rough as hell, some sort of virus. And I never thought to measure it before cutting the check. I guess I should of measured his forms the day before the concrete truck came. Who's got time for this bs in today's busy lifestyle. You get to the point in your life when you have a few dollars and dont want to bust your ass, so I hire it out thinking it will be done professionaly and I don't bust a sweat or my back. I should of simply done this myself, I don't know what the concrete would of cost but I'd guess a savings around $750 and ended up with a 121"X143 1/4" slab. About $100-120/yd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 8 hours ago, Tonik said: If I had the room, I would put the extension on one side, so it is all in one place...that makes it wider and more stable. And yea, rebar it. This. If you're only trying to add a few inches of new concrete that isn't part of the current slab, rebar will help but it will eventually chip away being so thin. Your best bet is to add 6inches or more onto a side and move the shed over some if the runner is on the outside. My dad's first shed was on runners, his most recent was not. FWIW the epoxy and rebar is a good idea regardless if you do any add on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Okay so the mason acts like he knows all about the rebar and epoxy. But should I do anything to prevent water from getting in between and freezing? I alrdy plan to seal the concrete before building the shed, but should I caulk the crack as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Yes caulk it. I don't see water being an issue but its cheap easy insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 I know most of crack will be covered by shed. I just don't want it to fall apart before the shed does. And on sealing, everything I read says to wait 28 days for concrete to cure. This mason clown said I could seal it Monday when it was poured the Friday before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 He isn't a mason damn it. Mason's work in brick and stone. He is a concrete guy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 As for sealing, they make special sealers that are 'cure and seal' at the same time. They are for new concrete. Others that just seal, yea wait a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Quick Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 As for sealing, they make special sealers that are 'cure and seal' at the same time. They are for new concrete. Others that just seal, yea wait a month. Nice to know, I will check and see if Menards sales the cure and seal. That will save me a month of time! Thx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 (edited) you don't need rebar and all that garbage. pour a new 4" - 6" (whatever you need) part like a footer. (deeper than the pad) a real footer for a load bearing structure would be 36" deep. but it's a shed. 12" is more than enough. the pad is probably only 3-4" thick anyway. Edited May 12, 2016 by serpentracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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