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Squeal coming from bike when starting, does not turn over


just_some_dude
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Here are the updated installation instructions:

 

Installation 1125 Rotor / Nut  ( update tightening procedure )

Note Crank Locking tool is already in position
1.     Match the double tooth spline on the crankshaft with the gap in splines.
        in the rotor hub and slide the flywheel hub onto the crankshaft
2.    Press the flywheel onto the starter gear.
3.    Rotate the starter gear and the freewheeling gear until the teeth mesh
4.    Clean the threads of the crankshaft and crankshaft nut ( ALWAYS USE A NEW NUT ) with brake cleaner

Note Where LOCTITE 272 ( red ) is unavailable , Use LOCTITE 278 ( red )
5.    Install the flywheel nut
a.     Apply LOCTITE 272 ( red )  to the threads and the mating face off the crankshaft nut.
b.    Tighten to 285 NM ( 210 ft-lbs )
c.    Back off the nut counter clockwise approximately 720 degrees
d.    Tighten to 285 NM ( 210 ft- lbs )
e.    Back off the nut counter clockwise approximately 720 degrees
f.    Final tighten to 400 NM ( 295 ft-lbs )

6.    Remove the crank shaft locking tool
7.    Install the plug and tighten to 15 Nm ( 11 ft-lbs )

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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/735199.html?1396155345

 

The post that the rotor goes on somehow scored a notch in the cover so there was a ridge on the post and a groove in the cover. so the cover would shift about 1mm then stop. well after a whole lot of swearing, hammering, prying, and pulling it finally came off. 

 

studs wouldn't have mattered. The metal was basically fused.

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  • 4 months later...

Raising thread back from the dead. I'm back at this bike again. I pretty much left it sitting this whole time. New season, can't stop thinking about it now. Here is another video of me turning the crank manually left and right. Also, what happens when I attempt to start. Just a note, there is no oil in the engine at this time. Also, I still cannot get the cover off, but if I can't figure out what is going on I am going to have no choice but to crate some sort of puller to yank the cover off.

 

 

Edited by just_some_dude
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Rotor failure, sprag clutch and gears are a common failure as well.

The torque is actually not far from 300 if I remember correctly. There have been a lot of revisions in that value through the years. The nut backing and sometimes coming off is actually a common issue too. Other than that and the occasional valvetrain issue they're usually pretty solid.

Like mentioned, don't turn it backwards.

It's fixable. It won't be cheap. Message me when you get a chance.

Where are you located?

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Bike is running.

I put some oil back in the bike, did a few manual turns (clockwise), attempted to start with battery and it would turn just a touch. Was turning better, but would eventually get back to squelch. Got an 80 amp charger/starter and cranked it a few times with some fresh gas and starter fluid. Bike turned on and was running strong. I let it run for about a couple minutes. I didn't hear any odd sounds, there was some white smoke, but I imagine that may be from the starter fluid because it eventually went away. I felt around the stator cover to see if there was any abnormal heat, everything seemed fine. I took the stater off and attempted to start the bike again with the battery and it started right up.

I really have no clue what may have happened. Just a guess would be I didn't oil anything on assembly and cranked the heck out of the rotor nut. Next steps are putting airbox back on, etc. Gonna need some new tires on it though, they are old and have been sitting for a whole year and a half. I'll have to watch closely and make sure nothing else goes wrong.

I live south of Westerville in Cental Ohio. Probably 2 miles from Iron Pony. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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