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New to me 2007 Honda VFR800 Interceptor


Gump
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Nice bike dude! Always liked how the VFR sounds.  A guy who lived next to my apartment complex had one and rode every weekend with it.  I used to stand outside and listen to him throttle her up.   :burnout:  Hearing that and a buddy pushing me to ride, put me on two wheels the following summer!

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Nice viffer gump. I'm with Bad, check out the charging system, especially the stator to R/R connector. They tend to burn. - I'm a bit of a VFR charging system guru if you have any questions.  The on-board voltmeter is a good idea. 

Frack this VFRness, sending it back. It doesn't fit under the fairing correctly no matter which way you route the wires. I can't find one picture online of a 2007 with the vfrness routed at the plug connection to see the holy grail of how to route this without bowing out the fairing a 1/4". Screw it. Connector looked fine. Putting in a volt meter though.

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Bummer. I'd like to take a crack at it before you send it back if you happen to ride into work some day soon and wanna stop by after.

I appreciate it but there's no room, the connector wires are to short to re-route. Below the hose is no good the fairing is closer there. Shifting the wires toward the front is no good. The relay if fine. It's the height of the green wire and pushing out mess. Maybe if the guy gives me a hard time returning it.

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Edited by Gump
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Rest of the pics for Ninja doc. The red wires to the right of the battery are the vfrness fuse wires.

The shiny black wire is the VFRness being routed along the fuel line under the tank and out from underneath the tank and then the positive red wire that hooks to the battery then the other red wires stay behind the subframe and come out on the other side of the battery to where the bikes other 30 amp fuses are,

 

 

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My 2 cent are - bad advice begets back advice. While I have much respect for the guy who started us all on the vfr charging system improvement journey, in truth the VFRness is a temporary fix it to have while you have the OEM components. Will it stop the R/R or the stator from failing?.....NOT.  So if I'm asked what to do on first glance on an unknown vfr, its always the same.... first test the system to gage the health of the charging system. (I have the procedure if anyone want it.."The Drill" its the same for any bike) 

Next get a voltmeter up front to watch what is going on. Then if the test shows something is whacked, then fix that.  (Best R/R fix.. www.roadstercycle.com   best stator... OEM.

VFRness? Skip it. 

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My 2 cent are - bad advice begets back advice. While I have much respect for the guy who started us all on the vfr charging system improvement journey, in truth the VFRness is a temporary fix it to have while you have the OEM components. Will it stop the R/R or the stator from failing?.....NOT. So if I'm asked what to do on first glance on an unknown vfr, its always the same.... first test the system to gage the health of the charging system. (I have the procedure if anyone want it.."The Drill" its the same for any bike)

Next get a voltmeter up front to watch what is going on. Then if the test shows something is whacked, then fix that. (Best R/R fix.. www.roadstercycle.com best stator... OEM.

VFRness? Skip it.

Skipping it. It's charging fine now. I think the majority of the issues were 2006 and prior.
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My 2 cent are - bad advice begets back advice. While I have much respect for the guy who started us all on the vfr charging system improvement journey, in truth the VFRness is a temporary fix it to have while you have the OEM components. Will it stop the R/R or the stator from failing?.....NOT.  So if I'm asked what to do on first glance on an unknown vfr, its always the same.... first test the system to gage the health of the charging system. (I have the procedure if anyone want it.."The Drill" its the same for any bike) 

Next get a voltmeter up front to watch what is going on. Then if the test shows something is whacked, then fix that.  (Best R/R fix.. www.roadstercycle.com   best stator... OEM.

VFRness? Skip it. 

 

I would be interested in the procedure you use to test the charging system, I already have a digital voltmeter installed and it matches my Fluke meter in voltage displayed.

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Stuck this waterproof voltage gauge in today. Wired the positive to the battery thru a fuse with a bullet connector near the battery too easily disconnect for storage.  Sucks in the sun but there aren't many options this small or locations to mount.

 

 

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I would be interested in the procedure you use to test the charging system, I already have a digital voltmeter installed and it matches my Fluke meter in voltage displayed.

I'm from the keep it simple stupid school of thought.  If you knock out and write down the numbers from the list below, 95% of the time, if there is a problem, it will be obvious. It got named the drill, when someone asked, --"Whats that drill you use to test the charging system?" Use it, it works..... 

 

Sorry for your electrical troubles. Well, looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.”

Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that!  

Then---Go through this starting point quick list.  You will need a multimeter too.

Steps:

- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

These are R/R quick checks---

--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.)

- Check stator

- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.  (Engine off)

- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity.  --   3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart)

- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more.  Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart.

- Repeat hot. ---- You would need to do this if you bike seems fine for awhile, but once getting on the hot side, the charging goes south. Ususally its stator insulation effing up when hot. 

This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.)

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Edited by mello dude
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Basically it's not charging now. Battery will

Die if I leave it in the bike. I've replaced RR, Stator, and battery was new last year when I was trying to fix it. Not sure what else to do and electrical stuff confuses me. The dash and headlights will turn off too if it's already running. Then battery will die.

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