ped

I like using rubber well nuts and extra sealing with uv resistant silicon. Its how i mounted my solar panels. To glue with fiberglass you have to rough it up good...like 80 grit. Then just use resin. Maybe lay a few layers of mat.

Yeah I learned dealers want to lose money on service because theyre contractually obliged to have a service department by the manufacturers. It lets them write it off as a business expense. Thats why they like it when the keep jobs like this for months.

Back orders happen...for 3, 5, 9 weeks. Lay money on this is a case of tearing it down for the third time cause something isnt right. These dudes always want hourly cause they cant make money on flat rate between dragging ass and redoing jobs.

Dude everywhere i worked, including triumph, they loved mechs who had shit for 6-9 months. Made them leads, never said a word, everybody thought it was normal....it justified the price i had one say. The industry is a joke. Always these MMI guys who think theyre gods gift to the industry, $70k in snap-on garbage, come backs galore. Its sad.

Oh shit you called me out bro

Track is lame. Spend $500+ to ride in circles. Just sell your bike, that'll get the itch back...lmao

its way cheaper for them specifically because they just screw the techs out of labor and get to markup parts exponentially. They pay marginally more hours to rebuild than to do a swap maybe.... 1.5-2x. Its a joke when you know what goes into doing a rebuild proper, the skills needed, and the tools required. I do my damndest to not fool with the stuff.

Ex Triumph tech here. I wanna +1 to this whole thread. do not over-rev the new one lmao Bring the mech some beer, a $20 or something. their hearts sank not getting a crate motor too, I'm sure...at least mine would. But talked to many people in this field and they seem to think a crate motor is unusual for most manufacturers. IDK im at a Kawi place and they wouldnt do a new one on z900 leaking oil from the head and Kaw is about the most lenient/cool ppl Ive seen for that stuff. Sent a bare head and gasket, had to re-use everything else.

Where ya at? Kinda interested...been bikeless for a while now

A washing machine does a fine job. After wash basic equate non-scented lotion for conditioning.

Like everyone said the manual will have a list of what to check, replace, adjust at what service interval. Just follow it to cover your butt. First service is usually an oil change and a check of everything else; chain, cables, some torque specs, pair valve, etc.

Its not a coincidence it changed with the rise of schools like MMI. As well the "old school" mechanics not only got out due to stagnant wages but because it got way too hard with the electronics. I know those old schoolers who are supposed to be top notch and theyre shocking uninformed about modern stuff. Motorcycle people love perception. Theres a whole industry around selling an image. Baby boomers and harley...Its one of the most BS marketing industries in the modern world. Its pure adult toy. So along with that they want a certain image of a mechanic and shop. One of the coolest most down to earth guys i seen come in my mostly jap cruiser and powersports shop were iron horsemen. Dudes actually rode their harelys and didnt just try to use us as a defacto detail/customizer shop for their garage queens they whine about endlessly.

Conversely - I love the looks i get when i explain to joe cruiser guy bitching about "speed wobble" our team won 6 wera national titles on tires we didnt balance and mounted backward to use the good side of the tread.

$29 off bike bought at shop $44.50 if walk in off bike $55/$55 on bike bought at shop - sport bike (reality = 1hr) $89 rear/$55 front- bought at shop for cruiser/bagger (reality - 2.5hr job) shop rate $89hr....flat rate is a joke

because once upon a time a tech needed to know carbs, tires and mechanicals that had all been the same for decades. Now they have to know all that plus throttle bodies/fuel injection and all the different generations, makes and brands, a million different points of electrical malfunction, ECU tuning, be an off-road "powersports" expert, do all the dealer training while doing 10 recalls a day across 10 different brands while knowing all about early 80's bikes and answering phone calls about torque specs on an engine some guy is trying to rebuild on his own without a manual while being treated like he's a dumbass or scammer for the tiniest mistake. ....all for 1990 wages.

More pics actual mileage lower as been ran for years without speedo-healer Here's a video of the last lap at a race against newer R6 and 2013 ZX6R http://youtu.be/6THEHEBNiCU?t=8m23s

Update and bump. Shock rebuilt and dyno'd by thermosman with a new spring for 220lb rider (have receipt) forks also rebuilt with OEM seals, bushings, maxima racing fluid New plugs, oil, main rear sprocket. Quickshifter and custom map added. $3450 or trade plus cash for 06+

It's worth $1,200 to the right squid

-ohlins tripple clicker with hydraulic preload -forks refreshed and rebuilt with 4 race weekends on them -1.05kg/mm fork springs -good ferodo XRAC race pads, rebuilt calipers, new motul fluid and fren turbo lines -Power commander III usb - +4 ignition advance -GYT-R slip-on -motion pro quick turn throttle -steering damper -New shorai lithium battery -Pirelli supercorsas in fair shape -brand new vortex sprokets -new EK MVXZ chain -some street parts (headlights, mirrors, etc) to convert back to street -safety wired and ready to race Tank is dented from a crash it was in before I bought it. Frame tab at the fairing stay was broken and re-welded in the same crash. It's a solid race bike with the capability of running at the pointy end of novice races. ~30k odo $3,000 (cincinnati)

I work for INEOS cincinnati....I dont do LDAR

make offer....you never know what I might take. Trades considered. Need 2nd R6 shock.

SU647 which is a S46PR1C2LB. Sprung for 180-200lbs. $750 obo http://www.ohlins.com/Our-products-new/Motorcycle/Products/Hypersport/SU-647/

Sweet. Grease your seat and tell me how that goes!

Yeah buddy he's holding 150lbs with one thigh!

Yeah... meandering on the street. Don't need my foot to touch the peg or touch it hard on the track. You'll also note my leg isn't touching the frame nor is my knee touching the tank. Just like Xaus here. If he was holding on with his leg it would have to be flush with the side of the tank for leverage. Betchya the majority of his mass is resting on the seat.... Under braking it is alot less straining to use your thighs in conjuction with arms. We're not talking about braking though. Once turn in happens all weight is off the front, body is setup and mass is on the seat. What you're confusing as holding yourself on the bike is simply "weighting" the outside peg theory or technique. Not all do that.