MSerfozo

Wish I could but I have Sunday booked. Anybody wanna do a shorter (100mi or so) around Hocking area on Monday?

Wouldn't feel like OR if somebody didn't! Also can't believe I've posted the word "bung" 3 times without Beavis commenting. Are we maturing?

Since nobody said the clamp on bung was crap, I ordered one from GlowShift (free shipping saved me $7 so I got it on ebay). It mounted up just as I hoped and I just finished wiring the sensor in and went for a test ride. While shopping on ebay, I fell peril to an impulse buy... I found master cylinder socks to fit my RCS19 M/Cs. So much for saving $7 on shipping, but I do think they look badass!

I bought a set of these when this thread was active and promptly forgot about them (I put them with stuff I was accumulating for a winter project that I still haven't started 😅 ). Yesterday, I wanted to splice some cables for an old O2 sensor and dug these out to use. My wife has a crafting heat gun that has a smaller tip and it worked perfectly! I spliced a 5 wire and a 6 wire cable and the splices were thin enough I could get a heat shrink over the whole thing.

Replaced the right side oil temp gauge with an O2 gauge and removed the oil sender and put a plug in its place. I did some repair work to the O2 sensor cable so it's ready to go when I get a bung in my exhaust pipe. Has anybody ever used a clamp on bung for an O2 sensor? If I have to weld one in, it'll probably be this winter before I take it down that far.

Is that a six-pack cooler on the front?

Rode 200 miles in your neck of the woods today, B-Mac. I looked at the weather forecast and we're supposed to have 2 days of rain followed by highs in the 50s. Today was my last chance for a while.

I saw a thread on another forum where a guy was rebuilding a bike engine and there were Craftsman Phillips screwdrivers in the background of the photos. I had Amazon send him a Vessel #2 before he had a chance to strip the heads of his screws. My Vessel cross head driver will fit a screw so well that it can hang horizontally from the tip.

Oh yeah, those are nice. They could climb up my list and I'll surely remember carnagetools.com.

Last spring I was working in Holland, MI and I saw one of my techs using this. I asked where he bought it, and before the day was over, I had driven 25 MI to the Grand Rapids Home Depot and bought one. It's perfect for the spring clamp on the fuel line behind my petcock when removing the fuel tank.

I am jonesin' for the set. The 10mm is probably just the gateway... 😅

I am! When I see the perfect tool for some job, I just obsess over it until I finally buy it. I had to have Vessel crosshead screwdrivers, Knipex Cobra Pliers, Wera Kraftform insulated electricians screwdrivers (including 2 sizes of PZ/S drivers for those electrical screws that have a combo cross and slotted head), and I just bought a soldering station that can run off my cordless tool batteries. When I have an occasion to use these, I just marvel at how perfectly they do the job, even in my hands! Yesterday I saw a 1000V insulated 10mm box end wrench from Germany. I have to admit, I would completely geek out to work on bike or car battery terminals with this. https://www.kctool.com/stahlwille-12161-vde-single-ended-ring-spanner-10-mm/ Does anybody else have some special tools that they just had to buy?

The bolt head's surface seems good, no leak there. Leak seems to be coming from the cylinder head side, either between the head and the crush washer or the crush washer and the oiler bar. The 2 holes in the head are supposed to be flat, but more important, they have to be parallel - so I'm very reluctant to do anything to alter it. What I'd like to find is a sealing washer that's a bit softer than Cu and Al so it can comply to mate the surfaces. If read that heating Cu until it's red, then cooling slowly will soften it some. In the meantime, the bandage is working to let me ride. I put on a new one and rode to see my parents in Nerk today, the new rag has a good 100 miles of absorbency left in it. I always thought my old bike would become a ratfighter before I finished it - the oily rag fits the look.

Did you save it? I had to use my "decibel discourager" to keep a woman from changing lanes in a roundabout into the lane I was occupying. Her window was down so my " '68 Buick horns" had the desired effect.

Rode it 200 miles to play in the Hocking Hills with a riding buddy who just retired 2 weeks ago. It's great being able to ride on weekdays! We got a late start because it was 39 deg this morning - waited til it was 60 deg at 11:00 to head out because we're both retired and don't have to hurry anymore! Hit 374, 664, 56, 278, 691, and Big Pine Rd and had lunch at Tammy's Country Kitchen in Nelsonville. Traffic was non-existent until after 4 or so on the way home. I still have a very slight leak. 😩 I tied a piece of cloth around the joint and it didn't leak any more than to soak into the rag. Bike and my leg stayed clean. I gotta come up with a way to seal this thing!

Well, shit! Guess I'll try new copper ones again...

A little more Google shows that these are also sold by Suzuki as drain plug washers for models with a 14mm plug. Hope they'll hold under the pressure of my application. I plan to get them swapped later this morning when the garage warms a little.

LOL, I don't need a new bike, I have this one almost exactly like I want it! Until the next mod, anyway... 😎 I've been wondering whether it's better to torque it warm or cold. I decide cold was better with the copper washers sandwiched in there because of different thermal expansion between Cu and Al.

No torque spec for an aftermarket performance part that's probably 20 years old. I think I'll put it together with the washers and no sealant. I've torqued these bolts enough times to be comfortable with doing it one more (hopefully) time. I hope they redesigned the washers for an improved sealing system and not to save a nickel's worth of copper. I'm hopeful that these will seal better. They seem to have a light gray coating on the sealing faces that I think will help them to comply with slight irregularities of the mating surfaces.

Here's a closer pic of the application. Arrows point to the sealing locations.

I'm still having a problem getting my top-end-oiler on the right side to completely seal. I get a drop of oil in about 20 miles, but it's enough to make a mess. I've replaced the copper crush washers a few times and applied differing viscosities of non-hardening sealants (Hylomar and Permatex #2) with a little improvement each time. A couple days ago I went to Iron Pony and bought a set of factory crush washers from Suzuki. The original part number had been superceded and instead of simple copper washers I got the ones pictured. Has anybody ever used a sealing washer like this? It kind of looks like the sealing ring on a spark plug but more opened up. Unless anybody has a better idea, I assume I'll just put it together and crank the shit out of the banjo bolts (until they break, then back off a quarter turn). I might put a dab of Permatex #2 on the sealing faces as well.

OK, I get that you don't want Tonik and his wing along, so somebody PM me the meet location & time.

Anybody still planning to do this?