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About 8Rider6

  • Birthday 02/10/1986

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  • Bike(s)
    2002 Honda 919
    2002 R1
    2015 Yamaha FJR1300

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  1. I've got a 2015 FJR1300 I've had for 3 year I'm likely looking to sell if you still haven't gotten one or made a decision yet and considering used at all. I like it quite well, just haven't done enough long distance riding to justify it anymore and picked up a track bike, so more interested in that type of riding now and will possibly be moving and can only take 2 bikes with me (919 is definitely going, as well as the R1). Never ridden the Concours, but I looked into both and for the most part people seemed to favor the FJR in most aspects aside from power and it's not much of a difference. Cruise control is a huge advantage, plus the FJR has a bigger fuel tank.
  2. Anyone have any PTR certs they’re not planning to use? Looking to buy 2-3 to use between now and September.
  3. Nope, not before or after flushing the system again. Pressure is back for now anyway, but who knows how long it'll last. I may buy a master cylinder rebuild kit and try my hand at it once the bike is done for the season.
  4. Gotcha, I understand the purpose of that test now. I'll probably try it as is tonight since I don't have time to bleed it tonight, bleed it tomorrow night and try it again and see what comes of it. Correct, I didn't disassemble the line, just touched the bleeder screw/valve on the caliper and the cap and diaphragm for the master cylinder. I don't *think* there's bleeder screw on the master cylinder itself. The bike is a 2002 Honda 919 for reference. Diagram for the master cylinder is here. Unless it's part #21, I don't think there's a bleeder screw. https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-honda-919-cb900f/o/m151030#sch419715
  5. If that works, what would that mean? I did try to pump the lever about 8-10 times and no more pressure built up after trying.
  6. Unknown currently. When it happened before, no leak. There may have been air when I bled them 2-3 months ago, but I kept refilling and bleeding the line until I saw no bubbles (as was done around a year ago). I am wondering if air is somehow being introduced after I flush the line/replace the fluid.
  7. I did a full brake fluid flush last year, front and rears. About 2-3 months ago, I had no rear brakes/pressure on my way to work one day. That evening, I flushed the rear brakes and it was good for another 2-3 months until today. I checked them before I rode since I hadn't ridden that bike for 3-4 weeks and wanted to know if I had my rear brake before setting off. Any ideas what's going on? If it works fine after new fluid, I would think the master cylinder and brake line are OK? It should be good for several years without replacement though, not a few weeks or months.
  8. He didn't necessarily say he was receiving unemployment, just that he was unemployed. From what I've heard from a neighbor, receiving unemployment money is almost more hassle than it's worth. But apparently there are some people out there that have figured it out well.
  9. I did this Sunday with my brother in law. I bought the Mitivac 8500, but we had difficulties with it. It seems like it wasn't sealing well where the nozzle fit into the bleeder valve. When trying vacuum the fluid out, a small amount was coming out at the base of the bleeder valve on the caliper. A different nozzle may have fit better, but would've required removing the front fender. We end up using his cheap harbor freight bleed-o-matic kit and doing it the manual way. That worked fine. The front lines weren't too bad, still a noticeable improvement, but the rear was long overdue, feels way better now. Definitely something I'll do every couple years at least. We were going to do the radiator flush, but it does necessitate taking the gas tank off, the filler neck is under the tank. We partially removed the tank to have a look and discovered the filler neck was partially cracked and whoever did it (likely by twisting and pushing away from the bike) tried to repair it with some plastic filler. We decided to wait on it until I get a new OEM filler neck to replace it with.
  10. Hard to believe that's a 2003, very well taken care of.
  11. Sounds good then, thanks for the replies, doesn't seem too daunting. Now it's got me thinking I should do a coolant flush too. Pauly, I'm in New Albany/NE Columbus.
  12. It's time my brakes should be flushed and new fluid replaced. I've never done it myself. The extent of maintenance I've done on my bike (919) has been oil changes, chain tension adjustment/lubing, clutch cable lubing, and replacing the pads once. I had the original front lines replaced with steel braided not long after I got the bike. Other than that, I've had Hoblick do any of the more major work on it. How difficult is this to do and what equipment is required (front and back)? I have a sealed bottle of DOT4 I've had for a few years. Should it be fine if it's sealed, or could moisture still have built up from garage storage? And particular brake line bleeder recommendations? Now that I have a nice new(er) FJR which I'll have maintained elsewhere at least the first 2-3 years, I'd like to get to doing much more work on the 919 myself to learn and if it takes more time, then I still have something else to ride.
  13. Hoblick is definitely a go to recommendation. He's up in Marysville now though.
  14. I mean, as far as Hyundai/Kia have come and improved since 2011, I personally wouldn't rule it out depending on the purpose. To tow heavy things with, no, but I'm sure it'd be competitive with something like a Ridgeline, Frontier, etc being a more car like truck with a bed for utility and towing light loads. Not everyone intends to tow 4,000-10,000lbs with a pickup. Motorcyclists in particular mainly want one as a toy hauler which you don't need a very high load or tow capacity for. For a normal commuting/daily driver car I'd buy Hyundai/Kia in a heartbeat over an American brand.
  15. An SV650 or any similar 500-650 standard twin would be a good bike to step to as well.
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