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arimichael

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About arimichael

  • Birthday 02/22/1971

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  • Location
    Gahanna
  • Vehicles(s)
    02 SV650S, 98 XR250R, 74 CB450

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  1. Maybe if you only turned it 90* rather than the suggested 180. The only possible difference would be that any logos etc. would then be hidden. And if it's only the can that needs replaced, as long as the mounting clamp can be repositioned if necessary, any muffler that is of similar inlet diameter will work. I've been running a Yoshimura RS-3 can on my D&D header for years.
  2. I would be very surprised to discover you could not get one from macperformance.com
  3. I'm hoping I remember all this from when I street-registered my XR250. Take your title to a Clerk of Courts and file an 'affidavit for change of body.' You'll have to 'swear' that it has certain equipment like a mirror, brake light, speedometer, odometer. (I don't remember the whole list.) Take that paperwork to a Deputy Registrar aka your local BMV office and file for a street title. When that comes in, take your bike and new title back to a Deputy Registrar for plates and registration. You'll need your bike so they can verify the VIN matches the paperwork. Get plate. Mount plate. Hoon.
  4. I'm from Washington Cty. myself and can attest to the...inconsistency of 550. I've been riding it and 555 for 20 years and it goes through cycles. Right now for instance, 555 is utter shit between Ringold and Chesterhill. But once you get further south, it's pretty nice and the Dunham Twp./ Little Hocking section is even better. Just treat every corner like it's got gravel in it whether it does or not and you should be fine. Stay loose on the bars, late apex the corners so you have better sight lines, and get all your braking done upright.
  5. Too late to get a piece of this action?
  6. GMD Computrack. Those guys are awesome at measuring a chassis for imperfections. I'd contact them to see if they could do a loose swingarm. Otherwise, you'd have to figure out how to make your own measurements for squareness. There may be a fab shop or lab somewhere out there that could do it properly for you.
  7. I got a better idea. Get new friends.
  8. You don't have to buy Woodcrafts as complete assemblies. They sell the separate pieces ala carte and are designed to work with OE pieces. I personally bought the brackets for my SV first, used Emgo (read: cheap but better than OE) pegs and folding shifter (lifesaver!), and the original brake. My plan now is to buy the Woodcraft brake pedal, have the whole kit anodized or powdercoated, and call it a day. Keep in mind that anodizing of cast parts is often less than great. It comes out looking very splotchy unless someone is REALLY good at the procedure. And while I have no personal experience with them, I've heard good things about Performance Powdercoating(?) off James and Refugee here in C-bus.
  9. I'll take this nightmare off your hands for $500. Cash money.
  10. Clutch release lever adjusted properly?
  11. I assume you're referring to the rear brake master cylinder. Yes, you need to ensure that it does not come out. But the upshot is that unless you pull directly on it, it's not likely to come apart. There is a part of me however that questions the sensibility of spending the money on powdercoating for crappy cast items when the money would be better spent on better looking, better working, more sturdy, and crashworthy ones from Woodcraft, CRG, and many others.
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