Dayyyumm, can a moderator please move this to the HOW TO section? Thanks This is an old post (DIY) I did a few yrs ago on another site. Thought some you would enjoy doing. Ok Playaz, after a whole summer of trial and error I'm satisfied with my final results of my homemade throttle lock/throttlemiesters . For under $40 invested in a 8mm helicoil set, drill press for counter sinking *the barend to accomodate a 8mm phillip bolt,oil cap with a hole punch in the center and some quality time with Medusa and my grandson learing the ropes watching closely, I finally got the chance to finisher up. The basic principle is to cause friction between the barend and aluminum handlebar under the white plastic lever (throttle), causing the throttle to lock when enough pressure is applied to *the oil cap after the barend has been turned in a clockwise (locking it in place between the barend and aluminum handlebar under the plastic throttle) or *counterclockwise (unlock) to disengage the throttle. To do this I just used an oil cap sanded down to the point when mounted onto the white plastic handle it will butt up against the raised plastic lip at the end of the throttle (white part of the throttle or 2nd photo below) with no space in between on the white throttle underneath the rubber grip and aluminum handlebar. Basically, the inside of the oil cap will be touching the lip on the white lever and the end of the handlebar where the the barend screws *into.*When you roll back the rubber sleeve it will be present what I'm talking about. Next, place the cap *onto the end of the plastic sleeve and wrap black electrical tape around it and the white plastic throttle several times so it wont slip when you compress (turn) the barend (shown in the photo below)... *This is where the fricton point will be when the throttle is locked into position when the barend is rotated in a clockwise motion. So on that note....... I just basically tap the inner hole on the barend with the supplied tap in the heli coil set. Then I used the supplied tool to screw the heli coil into the inside barend hole , thats it. * Next, I counter sunk the *outside barend hole far enough so the phillip bolt head would bottom out to help keep it in place with some locktite applied to the bolt. *By counter sinking the bolt just enough will *help with less rotation when engaging the barend. If you find yourself rolling it to much just add washers until you have it right. Hopefully you won't need to add no more than three washers to your bolt threaded through your barend. Here are some photos of the finished product. *BBBUSA and Dudewizer can vouch for the smooth operation and dependability, except for one minor setback during my test and tune stages (remember Brian.... duck * ) Also, here are two photos marked with blue tape showing the throttle *in normal and a locked position. What do you guys think ! And for you Homo's laughing at my busted up front brake lever, how this for a replacement. Thats right, a brembo, Charles hooked me up with last month. Still trying to find the time to put it on * . countersink the hole in the bar end? *How long is the phillip bolt? *And where did you get that plug in the end of your bar end? *Awsome Mod!!!!!! </div> Drill size will depend on the size of your bolt head. A 31/64 drill worked for me. The size of the phillip screw was cut to a 2.25" Depth of the hole in the barend is 5/8 deep (use cutting oil when drilling your hole). The plug in the barend is one of those bolt cover caps you can get at an automotive store that comes in colors of chrome, white or black. The cap is a two piece design but I only used the top cover portion. To make the oil cap fit properly I just slid the cap back and forth across a sheet of 80 gret sand paper til I got the correct depth to fit on top the white throttl end touching the aluminum barend. Finished up with black electrical tape. Here's the original version (Throttlemeister) and cost more.
