Mister2

Thanks for the help guys, i replaced the battery because it is old and not wanting to hold a charge after winter. i also put a new fuel pump in because, well thats what fixed it last time. i also verified the charging system is working, 14v, but at the fuel pump im only getting around 9v, so seems like a hefty voltage drop. i continued on the flow chart and the last step i landed on was to check power on pink/yellow wire with key on engine off and there should not be voltage, but i am getting voltage, so it says to replace the fuel pump transfer relay. but i can hear it click on when i key on, but i plan to order a new one this week and see what happens.

brining this one back from the way dead.. i replaced the fuel pump back then and it fixed it...Until now, its doing the same thing again. ive confirmed that when i key on the fuel pump does not prime, i ran overlay power wire to prime it, fired right up, i put the stock wiring back in place and hooked up my meter with it running im getting voltage at the pump and its running great.. so it seems its just not wanting to do the initial prime. i went though the Service manual flow chart, it wants me to put the rear wheel up and get above 18 mph and check voltage, but i do not have the means to do that, anyone have issues like this? ive googled and done tons of searching, but cant really find any info.

what are the requirements to run a bike at the trails? i took my cbr to the track for the first time last week, at norwalk...was a lot of fun, and they are really lax there on tech, i rode with jeans, jacket, helmet and gloves.. but since the trails is much closer, i want to run there, and i know they are a lot more strict, but couldnt find info on their site..

lol hell yea...you will find the short real quick!!!!

good luck man, wiring diagrams are your friend, but its hard to do when you have something hacked up like this, only ways to diag is to trace every wire, and test, or put stock components back in and see what happens

its a complete RK kit i got from Theils Wheels, it fits the same when installed from either way, has a small metal lip on both sides, and is exactly the same either way...

ok...yea..the sprocket moves a tiny bit on the splined shaft...in and out...

ok..i will try and explain better, take pics if need be.. the driving sprocket fits over a splined shaft, splined shaft is tight, no play or slop, there is a bolt that fits in the middle of the splined shaft that holds the sprocket in place, with the bolt drawn up agianst the sprocket, there is *about* 1/8 inch of movement of the sprocket on the splined shaft in and out, (toward the bolt and away) i figured it just has this small amount of play so the chain can track straight. but i just wanted to make sure....

well the washers would have to be splined, or very small outer diameter or it would contact the chain...but what is the general thought on this? some play or no play?

ok..well to be sure, i installed the old sprocket and it had movement in and out also, but i am unable to torque the bolt down to spec without the chain on to keep it from turning, so idk if it was all the way tight...

hey, putting new chain and sprockets on my 00 CBR, i bought a RK kit from local dealer, and my question is this... i installed the new driving sprocket (quick accel kit) and tightened down the bolt, but the sprocket can move about 1/8 in. in and out on the shaft, is this normal? the old sprocket had a rubber grommet on both sides but its made on the sprocket where as the new one does not, i just wanted to get an opinion from someone who has done this before. this is my first chain/sprocket swap and i dont want to mess anything up...Thanks for the advice!!!

update...i feel like a tard... i had it on TDC like the manual said, and i was trying to check intake valves on the cyl directly behind the timing chain, as i would in any other engine, turns out, cyl #1 is on opposite side of motor, got it figured out, all is well and within spec...thanks for the help though!!!

yea. according to the manual i have it where it says to be for checking the intake valves on cyl 1 and 3, but my smallest feeler gauge (.002) still will not fit, i guess just keep trying?

ok..thanks for the info.. the service manual says In. valve spec is .008 in +-.001, i cant even get a .002 in feeler gauge in there, but i think its cause the angle i have to bend my gauge to fit down in there...i wouldnt imagine it would be that far out of spec (20k miles, but never tracked)

ok...sorry for being a noob...there is a bolt head sticking out of the tensioner, do i remove the bolt and stick a screwdriver in and turn it? and out of curiosity why do i need to mess with the tensioner just for checking the lash? i dont see why it would matter as a long as i have the timing marks lined up where they need to be...