Jump to content

TimTheAzn

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    6,809
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    62

TimTheAzn last won the day on October 28

TimTheAzn had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,362 Excellent

About TimTheAzn

  • Rank
    Track Rat

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cleveland
  • Bike(s)
    I ride a tractor

Recent Profile Visitors

3,279 profile views
  1. I will offer you 5 handy's. I have tiny asian hands so anything I hold with them makes that object look bigger. It's a bonus.
  2. Some constructive feedback from what I see in that short video: I see the your nose diving a lot under braking. It goes up and down and up and down. Try to be smooth on that first 5% of braking. Also be smooth on that last 5% when you're coming off of the lever. When you aren't - you upset the chassis which upsets the bike which fucks with the contact patches your tires have to the pavement. (Something you want to avoid.) Also you can think "lighter longer" meaning you are on the brakes lighter but for a longer period of time. You don't need to get all of the braking done when you are straight up and down. Ultimately once you start applying the brakes - you want to carry the brakes and trailing off of them all the way to the apex. Not on/off on/off. Now don't get me wrong, you can't carry a bunch of lean angle and a bunch brakes at the same time. You'll tuck the front. That is why we trail off of them as we add lean angle. You'd be amazed at what just putting the pad to the rotor does for slowing the bike when you are leaned over. These bikes are designed to be steered on the brakes. Get a feel for putting pad to rotor in the garage pushing the bike around. Just walk it and then gently pull the brake lever until you can hear/feel the pads touch the rotors. That is the kind of sensitivity I'm talking about. A front tire can take more than you'd expect. But it won't if you're abrupt with it, you have to load the tire before you work the tire. Speed = Radius. As you slow you are able to get your radius tighter aka your bike pointed where you want to go. The faster you get your bike pointed the faster you can then reduce lean angle and add throttle. The longer you're on the throttle around a track the faster you'll go (obviously). With you being on a liter bike this is really important. We don't call those 1k bikes point and shoot for no reason :). Try to focus on being smooth. Smooth with your application (on and off) of the brake. Smooth with the application of the throttle. Smooth bar inputs. You'll get there, just keep coming out and you'd be surprised at when you can do!
  3. Looking to get something else. Specifically a CZ 75 SP01. Only reason I'm considering selling. FNX40 w/ Gen3 Inforce APL and kydex light-compatible holster. Less than 200 rounds through it. Shoots great. I have 200+ fmj's to go with it as well as a box of hydrashocks. $675obo for OR
  4. That makes me sound a lot smarter than I actually am. I just wanted a new suit - My second hand RST has been great and still has life. It will now be a back-up.
  5. Yea going to hop back onto a 600 for 2021. I probably should've never left the 600's but I bought a 1k, crashed/highsided it and lost a lot of confidence so that's when I went sv650. Which has made me a much better rider but since I'm going to focus more on trackdays than racing next season - riding with friends on bigger bikes while I'm on an sv is pretty non-existent as I get gapped on any part of the track that requires power lol.
  6. Just bought one of these. Can't wait for next season!
  7. I don't know anyone on OR that's done both. I know @Jester_ has done Barber.
  8. What's that sticker say?
×
×
  • Create New...