Hey members of Ohio Riders! We are assembling a collection of simple, short motorcycling tech tips to post for our Facebook and various other mediums. Do you know something that really saved the day for you? Share your experience. You will be noted as the author of your tech tip. We have quite a few assembed, but there is always more out there.
Looking for input!
Started by
35RFTW
, Nov 04 2010 02:10 PM
15 replies to this topic
#2
YSR_Racer_99
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- Name: Jeff
- Location: Springboro/ Lebanon
- Bike(s): 1991 Honda NSR250 MC21, '07 SV1000
Posted 04 November 2010 - 02:41 PM
When you come to a stop, make sure to put at least one foot down. And if its only one foot, kinda lean in THAT direction.
Brilliant. I know.
Brilliant. I know.
Someday I'll tell my grandkids about how great America used to be.
#3
buildit
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Dual Sport Rider
- Name: Luke
- Location: Near London, OH
- Bike(s): 07Suz Vstrom, 07 KTM 950SE, 06 KLR and 01 YZ426
Posted 04 November 2010 - 05:21 PM
Carrying a pair of tire spoons has saved me numerous times on the road and on the trail where changing out the tube was necessary or even patching the tube. Learning to change your own tire is also key since it allows you to ensure you have the right wrenches and tools to remove the wheel.
Zip ties are also an invaluable item to carry especially if your ride has a lot of body panels.
Zip ties are also an invaluable item to carry especially if your ride has a lot of body panels.
Off and on road videos and ride reports. Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
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#4
r6Brent71
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- Location: US
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Posted 04 November 2010 - 06:09 PM
When you come to a stop, make sure to put at least one foot down. And if its only one foot, kinda lean in THAT direction.
did you learn this wonderful technique at the Motorcycle Safety Course ? I'm positive Justin will use this for the Cycle Search facebook tech page.
If I ever agree with you that means we're both wrong.
#5
buildit
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Dual Sport Rider
- Name: Luke
- Location: Near London, OH
- Bike(s): 07Suz Vstrom, 07 KTM 950SE, 06 KLR and 01 YZ426
Posted 04 November 2010 - 07:00 PM
did you learn this wonderful technique at the Motorcycle Safety Course ? I'm positive Justin will use this for the Cycle Search facebook tech page.
Better there than in downtown Columbus. I watched a cruiser pull up to a light and forget to put a foot down in West Jefferson. No injury other than his pride.
Off and on road videos and ride reports. Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
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http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
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#7
buildit
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Dual Sport Rider
- Name: Luke
- Location: Near London, OH
- Bike(s): 07Suz Vstrom, 07 KTM 950SE, 06 KLR and 01 YZ426
Posted 04 November 2010 - 08:27 PM
More exactly it should only be tight when the suspension is fully compressed.at least for me, the chain is better to be "too loose" than "too tight" and i'll soon have a hefty service bill to prove it.
Off and on road videos and ride reports. Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
#8
El capitan
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- Name: Mike
- Location: Cleveland
- Bike(s): 1988 Honda Hawk GT
Posted 04 November 2010 - 08:34 PM
More exactly it should only be tight when the suspension is fully compressed.
basically if its too tight when the suspension is compressed the chain is too tight overall.
#13
buildit
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Dual Sport Rider
- Name: Luke
- Location: Near London, OH
- Bike(s): 07Suz Vstrom, 07 KTM 950SE, 06 KLR and 01 YZ426
Posted 10 November 2010 - 12:26 PM
Too many tech tips are bike specific or style oriented to be generalized for all bikes. But here's an easy one, lube the cables regularly to avoid binding or corrosion. A $6 cable lube tool makes it so easy. Also remember to change out the break fluid to avoid debris build up in the lines or cylinders.
Off and on road videos and ride reports. Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
#15
buildit
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- Members
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- 3,908 posts
Dual Sport Rider
- Name: Luke
- Location: Near London, OH
- Bike(s): 07Suz Vstrom, 07 KTM 950SE, 06 KLR and 01 YZ426
Posted 10 November 2010 - 06:49 PM
For some bikes it might be as little as ever 500 miles, it depends on the engine and type of use. My 426 needs it every 300 - 500 miles but with full synthetic my strom can go 4000 miles.
Off and on road videos and ride reports. Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
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http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
#16
imprez55
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Senior Member
- Location: Middleburg Heights
- Bike(s): '10 600rr (track), '08 Ducati M695
Posted 10 November 2010 - 11:13 PM
Some tips the previous owner of 1 of my bikes would have been better off knowing:
If your brake fluid is orange, solid and clogging up the calipers enough to keep it from releasing, its time to change it.
Antifreeze/coolant should be changed before it gets black and leaves a white film on the radiator cap.
A screeching sound when braking indicates a lack of brake pads, which engraves the rotors and is just generally a bad idea.
Metal gas tanks either need to be filled up completely for winter with stabil added, or drained and a film of oil added over the metal.
Chains should be CLEANED as well as lubed, every 500mi. A black residue covering the chain means its been too long.
If a fairing is not going on easily..STOP! You probably put it on wrong or in the wrong order.
The regulator/rectifier circuit does not kick in at idle, so starting your bike a bunch of times to show it off and leaving it at idle will kill the battery.
Torque specs are in the manual for a reason, not just for a pretty intro. Going beyond these values will snap a bolt off flush in whatever the medium you least want it in.
Wood screws are for wood, not metal, and not for drilling into the frame to ground a ground effects system.
Rubber doesn't last forever, it needs to be replaces before it dry rots (includes gaskets, tires, tubes etc.)
Cleaning isn't to make the bike good, its to protect the bike.
If your brake fluid is orange, solid and clogging up the calipers enough to keep it from releasing, its time to change it.
Antifreeze/coolant should be changed before it gets black and leaves a white film on the radiator cap.
A screeching sound when braking indicates a lack of brake pads, which engraves the rotors and is just generally a bad idea.
Metal gas tanks either need to be filled up completely for winter with stabil added, or drained and a film of oil added over the metal.
Chains should be CLEANED as well as lubed, every 500mi. A black residue covering the chain means its been too long.
If a fairing is not going on easily..STOP! You probably put it on wrong or in the wrong order.
The regulator/rectifier circuit does not kick in at idle, so starting your bike a bunch of times to show it off and leaving it at idle will kill the battery.
Torque specs are in the manual for a reason, not just for a pretty intro. Going beyond these values will snap a bolt off flush in whatever the medium you least want it in.
Wood screws are for wood, not metal, and not for drilling into the frame to ground a ground effects system.
Rubber doesn't last forever, it needs to be replaces before it dry rots (includes gaskets, tires, tubes etc.)
Cleaning isn't to make the bike good, its to protect the bike.
NEO No-Mar tire changer and "Sarah McLachlan of motorcycles"
This thread is double-dipped in homosexuality and then lightly sprinkled with, "Can I suck your dick?"
Failsauce.
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